Introduction

In 2012 we introduced the O-1.0; the world's first sub-900 gram hardtail. It was the perfect XC racing machine as our customers (you!) have proven that time and time again, from World Cup cross country races to Cape Epic wins (without sponsorships!)

By mid-2015, we were almost ready to introduce the ONE, but a delay in manufacturing and the introduction of the Boost standard made us change our mind. Boost increases wheel & frame stiffness and improves tire clearance. This was too good a chance to pass up, and so we reworked the frame completely into what is now the ONE+

The ONE+ is still that zero-compromise XC racing machine; our customers expect this from us and so we made absolutely no compromise here. Boost, a BB92 bottom bracket and our Thru-Thread thru axle increase drivetrain stiffness further, while new Wire-stays improve vertical compliance & traction. A dozen more tweaks and updates make the ONE+ a much, much better frame than we ever thought possible.

And then the bonus: Boost gave us enough space for 29x2.4” tires and tons of mud clearance, perfect for the ever more demanding XC courses. And similar to what we did on the U.P. the ONE+ also provides space to put in a 27.5x3.0” tire! While there are other frames that offer to fit both wheel sizes, they are usually heavy and not that much fun. Because the ONE+ has a zero-compromised XC frame that is still sub-900 gram, it’s super light not only as an XC racer but also as a 27.5+ tire go-anywhere bike. This makes it not only an interesting option for tough, fun rides but even for very demanding XC courses. More tire, more fun, more speed!

Tire philosophy

The ONE+, like its predecessor the O-1.0, is all about agile handling and efficient power transfer in a super-light package. For the new design we made two small tweaks:

1)  We included wider 2.4” tires into the mix, as tires in XC are creeping up in width to deal with the ever more challenging courses.
2)  For the smallest size, we changed from 29er to 27.5” tires. This allows us to get the front end lower, which was a frequent request for the O-1.0 in size S. There’s only so low you can go over a big 29er front wheel. The 27.5” gives us the space to create the perfect geometry for handling and fit for these customers. This also means that for the Plus tires, the size S uses 26+ tires instead of 27.5+ tires.

With the cross country geometry dialed in, we focused on a third, much tougher change: how to offer the option of fitting 3” wide tires onto such a cross-country racing machine without compromising the handling.

We faced a similar problem for the U.P. model, and the solution is also similar. Had we simply made space in the frame for 29er tires that are 3” wide, the resulting bike would have been a disaster for two reasons:

1)  If the geometry works well for cross country tires (2.0-2.4”), going all the way to 3.0” means the overall size of the wheel becomes much bigger, so the bike sits higher, the trail increases and the handling is compromized.
2)  To accommodate these bigger tires, you need longer chainstays, a bigger fork, all things that make it a worse cross-country bike.

Obviously this was not an option for us; we do not wish to compromise the cross-country handling of the frame at all.

So we went a different route. For the 3.0” tires, we went with a 27.5” rim (26” for size S). The smaller radius of this rim in combination with a bigger tire renders the same overall wheel size as a bigger radius rim with a smaller tire.

Same overall wheel size, same handling, no compromise. That simply doesn’t work with 29x3.0” Plus tires, only with 27.5x3.0” Plus tires. Here it is in numbers:

Tire sizeWheel radius
29x2.1”367
27.5x3.0”363
29x3.0”387

Boost

Lots of confusion in the mountain bike world nowadays, between three wheel sizes, several axle standards, Fat & Plus tires, Boost, etc.

So let’s talk about Boost. It’s really quite simple, Boost moves the chain outward by 3mm without changing the Q-factor (pedal stance) of the crank. It basically uses up the space created when high-end bikes stopped using triple cranks.

Also moving the cassette out 3mm plus another 3mm on the disc brake side means the rear wheel axle grows from 142 to 148mm. This improves the angles for the spokes to create a stronger, stiffer wheel. Great for big 29er wheels but really a good thing for every wheel size.

Bottomline: same pedal stance/Q-factor up front for good pedalling efficiency, wider spoke stance in the rear for stiffer, stronger wheel builds. If you want, you can also do the same trick in the front with a Boost front hub (110mm vs 100mm) but that’s optional.

Why do we add Boost to this frame? Because it adds stiffness to the build, because it works well with the wider rims that we prefer and because it creates more tire clearance between tire and chain. Aside from these advantages, there really aren’t any drawbacks now that all manufacturers have started making their components in Boost versions.

Dropped chainstay

To create space for bigger tires, the ONE+ features OPEN’s trademark dropped chainstay. A clean and simple method to move the chainstay away from the most crowded real estate on a frame and towards an area where we can boost the chainstay size for the most efficient power transfer.

TRCinTRS™ technology

“100% hi-modulus carbon”, “aero-space grade”, etc. Useless – and hopefully false (we’ll get to that) – claims meant to impress you.

It’s not about high- or low-modulus, it’s about the right carbon in the right spot. And because the bike industry loves techie-sounding abbreviations, we’ll humor them and call it TRCinTRS™.

Fact: stiffer carbon is more brittle. Strategically placed ultra-high-modulus carbon is a good idea. Making the whole headtube out of it when you have big impact loads is not!

The best lay-up is not 100% of one modulus; it’s a blend. We use the highest modulus (stiffest) carbon of any bike manufacturer where we can, and tougher grades of carbon where we must. That’s how our frames are both light and durable.

Wire-stays

The rear triangle has to provide lateral stiffness for an efficient drive train, but vertical compliance for better comfort. The ONE+ features chainstays and seatstays that are extremely thin vertically to provide that compliance, while their lateral width and layup ensure rock-solid propulsion.

The seatstays are pre-curved so they can absorb even small bumps very quickly. But lay the bike into a turn and you’ll notice how stiff they are laterally. Truly the best of both worlds.

Flat-out downtube

The downtube is the key for stiffness, connecting the steering center of your frame with the drivetrain. The flat-out downtube’s characteristically flat outside faces allow us to strategically place strips of ultra-high modulus carbon far away from the center plane. The stiffest carbon exactly where it matters, guaranteed!

Zero-setback seattube

With a minimalist 27.2mm diameter we maximize the flex in our seatpost & seattube. This is especially a big plus on rough terrain. The seattube angle is designed around the use of a straight, zero-setback seatpost rather than a regular seatpost with setback (we’ve never understood those). Zero-setback posts are lighter, saving you another 10-30 grams (every little bit helps).

Fully-internal cables/hoses

External cables & hoses collect dirt, risk getting stuck behind objects (particularly expensive with electronic shifting) and frankly, they are ugly. So the ONE+ runs them internally.

With our proven MultiStop design, you can customize the frame for 2x10/11, 1x10/11 and Di2 shifting. Just pick the right insert.

ThruThread dropouts

Most thru-axle frames are heavier than quick-release frames. Extra carbon for the dropouts, heavy hangers, and the axle itself. But they are stiffer, So what do you want most? The answer for most people is “both”, and so we introduce the first frames that combine a thru-axle with a lower weight. How?

The ThruThread design uses the same threads that hold the thru-axle to lock the derailleur hanger into the frame. Simple, light, effective.

We didn’t just redesign the dropout, the entire seatstay and chainstay design is optimized with the added stiffness of the thru-axle in mind. For the thru-axle itself, we recommend the stiffest design available, the Syntace X-12, but you are free to use a different 12mm thru-axle if you want.

SafePost™ Pilot hole

Seatposts usually indicate a minimum insertion dimension. That keeps the seatPOST safe, but it’s also important that the seatTUBE is supported properly. The minimum insertion for that is indicated by the SafePost Pilot hole.

Bottom bracket

The ONE+ uses a 92mm bottom bracket standard. This allows you to directly mount a Shimano or SRAM 24mm crank in the frame (the wider BB shell replaces the outboard bearing cups, essentially integrating them into the frame structure).

You can even fit cranks with wide, 30mm axles by using a special super-light bearing set (for example the THM M3 and RaceFace SL cranks) for the stiffest, lightest possible set-up.

Geometry

PLEASE read this before you jump into the numbers, so at least they make sense:

  1. The geometry is based on an unsagged 100mm suspension fork
  2. The size Small is designed around smaller wheels and hence a shorter fork. If you size by stack & reach, this doesn’t matter as they are independent of wheel size. But if you look for example at headtube length, you will see “strange” things like the Small having a longer headtube than the Medium. That’s not because the Small is taller, but because the whole headtube starts lower because of the smaller wheels.
  3. The ONE+ is designed around narrow 29er cross-country tires and wide 27.5” “semi-fat” tires. Both have very close outside wheel diameters so the geometry doesn’t really change between one or the other. Of course there will always be small differences from one tire to the next, a 2.1” tire from Schwalbe has different dimensions (in width and diameter) than a Continental or WTB. And of course a 2.4” tire will be slightly different from a 2.1” even if the make and model are the same. ll these dimensions are also affected by rim width. For the handling, that all falls within the range that we design for, but you do have to realize that for example standover height is slightly effected by this. This is obviously not unique to the ONE+, this applies to any bike.
  4. Standover height is measured to the top of the toptube directly above the bottom bracket and depends slightly on the exact tire size used.


size
standard
wheel
semi-fat
wheel
stack
reach
headtube
angle
seattube
angle
fork
axle-crown
headtube
length
toptube
length
seattube
length
BB
drop
rear
center
front
center
wheelbase
standover
height
S
27.5"
26"
584
401
71.0°
73.0°
487
102
576
420
40
423
635
1056
728
M
29"
27.5"
615
419
71.4°
72.5°
506
97
602
445
57
440
655
1092
752
L
29"
27.5"
647
436
71.4°
72.0°
506
135
643
500
52
440
684
1121
809

Specifications

Frame:OPEN ONE+
Frame sizes:S, M, L
Frame-only weight (+/- 3%): Size S: 848g
Size M: 869g
Size L: 885g
BB std:BB92 PressFit
Recommended fork:100-120mm travel, 44-46mm offset
Crank std:Boost 1x or 2x (for 24mm or 30mm axles depending on crank brand)
Tire fit for frame:29x2.4” and 27.5x3.0” for size M & L
27.5x2.4” and 26x3.0” for size S
Headset std:Integrated Tapered IS42/28.6 | IS52/40
Seatpost Ø:27.2mm
Rear axle std:Boost 148x12mm thru axle
Rear brake std:Post mount for 160mm disc
Cable routing:Internal via exchangeable MultiStops for 1x10/11/12, 2x10/11, Di2
Incl. in box:Frame, headset, seattube collar, rear thru-axle, 2 rear derailleur hangers, 3 MultiStops (2x, 1x, Di2), chainstay cable exit stop, BB guide, cable sleeves, noise-reduction foam sleeves, bottle cage bolts, manual
Frameset Price
(excl. sales tax)
$3,200 USD

Comments & Questions

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OPEN
Based on the geometry of the ONE+, is there a minimum stem length for your frame? I used to run a 30mm stem on my other bike, but is that appropriate for an XC bike such as this?
Post #1 of 62. Posted by Putra on 03-May-2016 12:19:37 GMT [0<--639]
OPEN
You can if you want to, but probably when you pick the right frame size you'll end up with something a bit longer. But handling-wise, we have very agile steering so even with a super short stem, it is quite nice and not as sluggish as other bikes would be.
Post #3 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 10-May-2016 14:36:28 GMT [639<--653]
OPEN
How does the chainstay length affect the handling? For me 440 mm seems a bit too long.
Post #2 of 62. Posted by on 09-May-2016 09:04:41 GMT [0<--650]
OPEN
Chain stay length affects stability and weight distribution. We've tested quite a range and the 440mm for the M and L in combination with the 29er wheels makes not only theoretical sense but also is what we prefer on the trails. Of course I say this in combination with all our other geometrical decisions, it's not like 440mm is good or bad in itself, it's how it works in combination with our head tube angle, our fork rake, etc to create that agile steering.
Post #4 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 10-May-2016 14:45:46 GMT [650<--656]
OPEN
will it work with 120 mm fork?
Post #5 of 62. Posted by on 17-May-2016 11:45:39 GMT [0<--680]
OPEN
Yes it will.
Post #6 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-May-2016 15:58:32 GMT [680<--681]
OPEN
Gerard: I've always admired your work with Cervelo--outstanding technical achievement in so many ways--and always wondered if you'd ever find the time to turn your attention to mountain biking. You've solved one of the principal challenges of road bike design--taking advantage of aerodynamics without materially impacting other key elements, such as weight and handling. Now I'm wondering whether you'll take on one of the key design challenges of mountain bikes: Giving the rider the advantage of full suspension to cope with technical race courses. Again, without overly impacting other key design elements. Seems like a useful challenge to solve, a difficult one, and therefore one worthy of your skills.

Regardless, you have my

Best,

Brad
Post #7 of 62. Posted by on 28-May-2016 15:39:35 GMT [0<--705]
OPEN
Hi Brad, we've been working on a full suspension frame for a long time and continue to. It will be ready when it's ready :-)
Post #8 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 30-May-2016 12:16:47 GMT [705<--706]
OPEN
Can I run a 120mm fork on this frame?
Post #9 of 62. Posted by on 08-Jul-2016 20:24:51 GMT [0<--786]
OPEN
Yes you can. 100 or 120 mm both work well with the frame.
Post #10 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 09-Jul-2016 16:44:10 GMT [786<--787]
OPEN
I have a question about the Open O-1.0 what are the specs the rear axle?
Post #11 of 62. Posted by Felix7 on 19-Jul-2016 05:15:49 GMT [0<--805]
OPEN
The O-1.0 had 135mm quick release. The ONE+ has 142 x 12mm thru-axle.
Post #14 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Aug-2016 23:04:24 GMT [805<--834]
OPEN
142x12??? The One+ is boost148?
Post #16 of 62. Posted by Adrian on 04-Aug-2016 11:00:43 GMT [834<--847]
OPEN
Sorry, typing too quickly. Yes, 148x12.
Post #18 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Aug-2016 10:50:30 GMT [847<--852]
OPEN
Hi,

what is the distance from upper end of the seattube to the SafePost Pilot hole? So: how deep the seatpost have to be into the seattube?

Thanks
Post #12 of 62. Posted by on 31-Jul-2016 17:03:51 GMT [0<--830]
OPEN
100mm
Post #13 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Aug-2016 23:03:34 GMT [830<--833]
OPEN
Can I use a powermeter on the left crank arm on the Open One +. And if yes which crank with powermeter will fit?
Post #15 of 62. Posted by on 03-Aug-2016 22:26:54 GMT [0<--843]
OPEN
Unfortunately there are so many variables with power meters that we cannot give you a straight yes or no answer. The Rotor InPower fits, as do other power meters that have the sensors inside. for outside "pod" style cranks, your store will have to try and see.
Post #17 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Aug-2016 10:49:55 GMT [843<--851]
OPEN
Hi Gerard, I have a question regarding crank length for mountain bikes - a few years ago, a switch down to 170mm on my road and cross bikes had a huge benefit in terms of my comfort through opening the hip angle.
Given that a mountain bike position will inherently have a relatively open hip... is there a logic to keeping crank lengths the same across all bikes, or trying to gain leverage by riding a longer mtb Crank (ex. 175mm)?
I would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks in advance!
Post #19 of 62. Posted by on 14-Aug-2016 15:08:58 GMT [0<--869]
OPEN
Looking at the available research, crank length seems to not follow any logical rules, so I can't possibly give you a correct answer. Trial and error is really all that works. However, you are correct that if your hip angle is a concern, it will be much more open on the mtb anyway so you wouldn't need a short crank to accomplish that. You could have a much, much longer crank and still have less of an acute hip angle.
Post #20 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Aug-2016 00:00:13 GMT [869<--872]
OPEN
Can i just say, as someone who's worked for multiple major bike brands, kudos for the amount of tech and the explanations as to the why's and how's you've given. showing roll outs for various wheelsizes? awesome. all of the geo FAQ's? Awesome. people should be fired up to buy your bikes.
Post #21 of 62. Posted by on 22-Aug-2016 16:18:27 GMT [0<--906]
OPEN
Thanks, we appreciate the kudos!
Post #22 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 22-Aug-2016 18:56:24 GMT [906<--907]
OPEN
The head tube angle is very steep. I ride a Scott Scale SL 900 and have gone over the handlebars several time especially on slow steep rocky downhills when the front wheel "hangs up" behind a rock. Doing the same downhill using a bike with slacker head angles does not send me over the handle bars easily. Is the steepness of the head tube angle not a concern with regards to especially the slow down hilling ability?
Post #23 of 62. Posted by on 31-Aug-2016 11:55:58 GMT [0<--926]
OPEN
Not for us or any of our customers. What you are referring to is not a head-angle issue per se as much as it is related to front-center and the location of your center of gravity. Now, front-center can be related to the head angle but it doesn't have to be. For example our geometry is designed around a short stem, which increases the front-center without needing to slacken the head tube (which has all these other drawbacks).
Post #24 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 31-Aug-2016 16:11:00 GMT [926<--927]
OPEN
will this frame fit 29x3.0 tires...specifically the maxxis chronicle
Post #25 of 62. Posted by on 11-Sep-2016 19:31:30 GMT [0<--964]
OPEN
No, that would completely mess up the geometry (and require a much more stretched out frame, which in turn would mean it wouldn't have the perfect XC behaviour anymore. So you can fit 27.5x3.0" tires (or 29x2.4") as those have the same overall diameter and thus the same handling characteristics.
Post #26 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 13-Sep-2016 08:58:48 GMT [964<--965]
OPEN
Is it possible to have two different wheel sets -- for example, a 29x2.0 xc race set and a 27.5x3.0 trail set -- and interchange them with relative ease? I guess I'd have to have identical hubs so rotors line up fairly well, with maybe some minor caliper adjustment? That would let me have a one-bike quiver! Possible?
Post #27 of 62. Posted by on 15-Sep-2016 22:33:36 GMT [0<--967]
OPEN
Absolutely, that's what most of us do. Normally no caliper adjustment is needed, especially as you say if you have identical hubs and rotors.
Post #28 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 20-Sep-2016 12:13:20 GMT [967<--972]
OPEN
Thanks Gerard! I bought the 0-1.0 in January (Probike Supply) and while I'll probably buy the One+ frame soon, now I'm curious what the the different combinations are on my 0-1.0? I have 29x2.0 on there now for racing, but do you happen to know the max tire size for 29, and also if I put a 27.5 on, what do you think would fit? I'm guessing not much option since it's not a boost frame.
Post #29 of 62. Posted by Matt May on 25-Sep-2016 17:34:20 GMT [972<--991]
OPEN
Hi Matt, you can't rally fit a 27.5 in the O-1.0, there is not the width to put a tire big enough to create the outside diameter that's close to the 29", if that makes sense. Basically in 29" and 27.5" you can faith same width tire in the frame, around 2.3-2.4" depending on the brand and the clearance you can tolerate, so then the 27.5" wheel is simply too small. It's not so easy to fit the 27.5x3" tires into a frame like this, that's why we had to work a long time on the ONE+.
Post #30 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 28-Sep-2016 19:36:38 GMT [991<--1006]
OPEN
ONE+ here in come! Already have someone interested in buying my 0-1.0 frame so all is good.
Post #31 of 62. Posted by Matt on 29-Sep-2016 11:44:47 GMT [1006<--1009]
OPEN
Hi Gerard, I've been riding/racing O-1.0 for about three years. I love it. Especially impressed with how durable it's been, (most of my frames break after a couple of season).
Thinking about one+ . If you want to interchange a set of 29er race wheels and some fun 27.5 3" tires, are you limited to a lefty fork ? What other options can you recommend?
Post #32 of 62. Posted by Al on 08-Oct-2016 01:42:40 GMT [1009<--1022]
OPEN
Hi Al, not at all. There are many forks that will work. In fact the Lefty officially doesn't work, except that it does. But basically any fork that will work for 27.5x3" will also work for the 29er tires. That includes some regular forks and many Boost fork. I'm actually gathering fork info right now for a new blog in the next few weeks. But the good news is, there are more and more forks appearing that will work, as the Boost standard becomes the standard of choice.
Post #33 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 09-Oct-2016 14:51:29 GMT [1022<--1025]
OPEN
Hi Gerard !
Do you think 29er wheel would work on 27.5er Lefty ?
Post #57 of 62. Posted by inbikewetrust on 16-Nov-2016 04:59:18 GMT [1025<--1180]
OPEN
I would assume so, but I haven't tried it. They both have such close diameters that there really isn't any difference.
Post #58 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 18-Nov-2016 10:39:12 GMT [1180<--1183]
OPEN
Andy and Gerard, how important is the fork offset? I have a SID, and most SIDs sold have 51mm offset.
Post #34 of 62. Posted by Matt on 14-Oct-2016 23:00:19 GMT [0<--1052]
OPEN
Hi Matt, all SIDs also come in a 44-46mm offset, so that is the best version to get.
Post #36 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 15-Oct-2016 10:22:32 GMT [1052<--1055]
OPEN
Gerard, the new SID World Cup boost version does NOT come in anything other than 51mm. I need to know if this is ok or does it completely destroy handling and geometry?
Post #45 of 62. Posted by Matt on 25-Oct-2016 16:53:34 GMT [1055<--1111]
OPEN
Well, completely destroy are strong words but it's definitely not designed for it. The handling will be a bit quicker than intended, which you may or may not like depending on your personal preferences.
Post #47 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Oct-2016 17:10:08 GMT [1111<--1116]
OPEN
Gerald, do you have any opinion on ovalized rings, such as rotor?
Post #35 of 62. Posted by Nick on 15-Oct-2016 00:24:36 GMT [0<--1053]
OPEN
Not really.
Post #37 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 15-Oct-2016 10:22:47 GMT [1053<--1056]
OPEN
Andy and Gerard,
I took delivery of my ONE+ yesterday from Pro Bike Supply. You should be aware that what is in the box is NOT what you state above. When I opened the box, two things were missing: 1. there was only ONE derailleur hanger, not two. 2. there was no star nut, bolt or top cap for the headset. You need to be aware of this...very disappointing since it is an expensive frame and "headset" generally means "complete headset."
Post #38 of 62. Posted by Matt May on 16-Oct-2016 19:09:39 GMT [0<--1057]
OPEN
Hi Matt, occasionally it happens that the second hanger is missed, though that's become quite rare. As for the star nut, the UP and ONE+ share the same headset except for the star nut (which is already pre-installed for the UP in a sleeve for its fork) so it seems you got one of those headsets. As you probably expected, Pro Bike Supply will take care of you for these two items.
Post #39 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Oct-2016 20:47:51 GMT [1057<--1063]
OPEN
hello. there is a relatively big gap between the m and l model regarding the seattube length. i would need the m frame but having very long legs (89 inseam, 1.80 high, short arms) the seatpost length (ca. 30 cm!) would look too absurd. will there come any size in between or can you offer something with ca. 47-48 mm seattube? thanks from germany
Post #40 of 62. Posted by heiko gastaldello on 20-Oct-2016 09:12:32 GMT [0<--1072]
OPEN
Hi Heiko, why would the seatpost length look absurd at 30cm? That's pretty normal, you take a standard mountainbike seatpost at 42cm, 12cm inside the seat tube and 30cm outside of it. If you have any less sticking out of it, you'd become tempted to shorten the post. There definitely won't be a size in-between given that the step from M to L seems to work very well.
Post #41 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 20-Oct-2016 10:32:02 GMT [1072<--1073]
OPEN
Do you have a size chart, also where can I buy a frameset?
Post #42 of 62. Posted by Brian Bigeliw on 20-Oct-2016 21:41:39 GMT [0<--1077]
OPEN
Hi there Brian, Yes, for the geo chart, just scroll up a bit. Our dealer list is also on the site, at the top right portion of the menu. Please let me know if you have any problems finding them.
Post #43 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 20-Oct-2016 23:34:17 GMT [1077<--1078]
OPEN
Hi
I will be part of Cape a EPIC 2017, the goal it is very simple , to be finisher and enjoy each day. I would like to up grade my unlimited version with more than 6,000 km . New SRAM eagle, what model do you suggest in order to have pleasent uphill and fast performance in the plane areas. Please let me keep simply my new aventure :)
Post #44 of 62. Posted by Guille on 25-Oct-2016 07:57:57 GMT [0<--1109]
OPEN
Hi Guille, with the ONE+ you really have two options. If you're on the faster end, then the XC set-up with slightly bigger tires (2.4" wide) than you likely have now on your O-1.1 is the way to go. For ultimate comfort, best odds of climbing any surface and just a small penalty on the flats, you could go semi-fat with a 3.0" wide tire. The latter is what I plan to do at a future Epic, but I also know there are people who feel that's overkill. However, my reasoning is that you can never gain back the time on the flats that you loose on climbs or due to discomfort. And on the descents you may gain some times with the extra security of the wider tires too, and definitely you'll gain a lot of comfort.
Post #46 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Oct-2016 17:07:15 GMT [1109<--1115]
OPEN
can i use ordinary sized 2.2-2.3" tire on the S size (27.5)? i usually use 2.1 x 2.0 but 2.2-2.3 is okay..
and can i use non boost fork? i already have 15x100 fork that i wanna use. does it change the way it ride? (to use boost on the rear and QR15 on the front)
Kind Regards.
Post #48 of 62. Posted by Danpyo on 29-Oct-2016 09:37:47 GMT [0<--1126]
OPEN
so basicly it will be like this.
12x142 ; 15x100 with 2.2 tire.
120mm fork
80mm -12deg stem.
740mm bar
Post #49 of 62. Posted by danpyo on 29-Oct-2016 10:15:05 GMT [1126<--1127]
OPEN
Hi Danpyo, you can use anything from a 2.0-2.4" wide tire in 27.5" on the size S frame. For the front fork, you can use Boost or non-Boost, as you wish, it doesn't matter. The other specifications of the fork, so the brand and model, are much more important to determine what you like than if it's Boost or not.

The rear is Boost so that is 12x148, not 12x142 a you wrote in your second message (that's the whole principle of Boost).
Post #50 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 30-Oct-2016 06:28:10 GMT [1126<--1128]
OPEN
hai gerard&andy.
thanks for the reply it really helps :D
i have fox, but i wanna get my hands on GERMAN-A XCITE Zero fork
crown to axel : 512mm (27,5Zoll / 120mm)
there's no further spec available for the fork.

can i ask for your opinion?
i never tried a mtb below 9kg. is it really okay to build around 6.2 - 6.6kg (with pedal) for XC MTB (light xc and trail use only)?
i found that even the pro bike only weigh around 7-8kg
is lighter always better on XC bike? when will the bike becomes too light? whats your weight reccomendation?
sorry for asking so many question :D
really love your frame. <3
CHERRS!
Post #51 of 62. Posted by danpyo on 31-Oct-2016 01:03:56 GMT [1128<--1132]
OPEN
Yes, lighter is always better IF (and that's a big IF) you do not give up performance through a lack of stiffness or strength. The ONE+ is stiff and strong first, and light second. Now, building up a bike to 6.2kg is not easy, you'll need some very special parts for that. Regarding the fork, I try to follow German A a little bit but the steerer design used to be the biggest issue (no 1.5" steerer on the lightest forks when almost all frames are now that way). But I am sure they are catching up.
Post #52 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Nov-2016 19:36:08 GMT [1132<--1140]
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hai gerard&andy.. what choice of color do you have? can i customized it? i found gold and silver(white) in your pictures.. is there any other option?
thankyou have a nice day. :)
Post #59 of 62. Posted by Danpyo on 20-Nov-2016 20:39:10 GMT [1140<--1221]
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Hi there, the only color is matte black with white logo (it may have appeared silver in the photo). The gold logo was a one-off for SRAM's introduction of the gold Eagle group.
Post #60 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 21-Nov-2016 05:15:33 GMT [1221<--1223]
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I am 1.83 mts, what size should fit me perfectly, M or L?? Thanks
Post #53 of 62. Posted by Christopher on 01-Nov-2016 21:09:00 GMT [0<--1142]
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Hi Christopher, best to send me the info about your current frame (make/model/size/year) via the form at right and I can take a closer look for you.
Post #54 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 02-Nov-2016 10:07:36 GMT [1142<--1146]
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I have a specialized Epic FSR 2016 in size Large...
Post #55 of 62. Posted by Christopher Portugal on 02-Nov-2016 15:26:55 GMT [1146<--1153]
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Hi Christopher, that frame is within millimeters of the ONE+ in Large, so presuming you like the fit of that Specialized, you'll also like the fit of our Large.
Post #56 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Nov-2016 03:09:54 GMT [1153<--1159]
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Hello Gerard,

Is there an option for a 29r frame in size S? Also, does it fit a Stages (Shimano XTR) powermeter?

Thank you
Post #61 of 62. Posted by David R on 22-Nov-2016 16:03:45 GMT [0<--1230]
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Nope, only an ill-fitting frame and we wouldn't want to build that. An old-style Stages pwoermeter won't fit.
Post #62 of 62. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 24-Nov-2016 05:09:05 GMT [1230<--1233]
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