Keywords: 2.4" wide tire,27.5,complete bike,gravel bike,gravel ride,open,sram force/eagle axs

BOTM: The WIDE RANGE WI.DE. - Part 1

Gerard Vroomen - 03-Oct-2019
As you probably know, we try to keep things simple at OPEN. Extremely simple. "Working hard to stay small". At the same time, we want to give as many people as possible the chance to experience riding one of our bikes. Those two goals sometimes clash.

When we started out, we offered some complete bikes in addition to our framesets. The complete bikes were popular, but also a hassle. So as we grew and needed a simplification to stay small, we tossed the complete bike offerings. 

Sanity restored, but as it turns out, we also took something away that many people liked. There is a large group of our customers who love piecing together their next bike one part at a time, agonizing over every detail. We know, because many of you email us for advice on such matters.



Yet there are also a lot customers who ask us one simple question: "What spec should I get?" Although our Bike Of The Month shows our preferences every month (what's in a name?), that also means there are in the end too many suggestions for some. "Just tell me what I need".

With the UP and UPPER, that is difficult to do as there are so many options. The WIDE also has a lot of options, but in the end the usual WIDE customer is more narrowly defined. That makes it easier to propose "the one spec to rule them all" (with of course "one ring to rule them all" for those of you who are into Lord of the Rings references). Drumroll please!



So Andy and I sat down and drew up our go-to spec for the WIDE. It went something like this:

  • The drivetrain has to be a Force/Eagle AXS combo. The maximum range with a 10-50 cassette is perfect for all the crazy trails you can take the WIDE onto, and the Force parts are very close to their Red siblings and a fair chunk less expensive. Some of you may know that I actually prefer the 11-50 cassette, I do. But for the most extreme rides, that extra bit of range is nice for the WIDE. I wouldn't put the 10-50 on an UP or UPPER, there I would go for that 11-50 or an 11-46 (from Rotor).
  • For the wheels, DT just launched some new wheel sets and they are nice. Equally important, they are Swiss, just like Andy and Basler Läckerli. While the latter is irrelevant in this case (they are delicious though), Andy's say is crucial. More important than mine actually. First of all, he rides in terrain perfect for the WIDE every day, some of the trails around Basel are made for the biggest possible tires. Secondly, I get to spec a lot of bikes, so for this one, Andy had free rein. 
  • Same goes for the cockpit parts. Stem, handlebar and seatpost all come from Easton. Nice parts, reasonably priced and not unimportant, the grey graphics match the frame perfectly. Standard road drop, just the way Andy likes it (and actually so do I, it's either a clean road drop or a double bend flare, just not a fixed flare for me).
  • Then maybe the most important part: tires! Lots of options here, but we like to build the WIDE into the most capable off-road machine while rolling well on smooth surfaces too. So we went all-out with the Schwalbe Rock Razor 2.35". Especially with winter coming in many places, this is a grippy tire. You can also tone it down a bit with a Schwalbe G-One Allround (the new 2.25" is brilliant and wider than expected), maybe the ideal "summer tire".
You may wonder, how about rides that are smoother and maybe even see significant sections of asphalt? Just yesterday Zap Espinoza, the editor of Road Bike Action, emails me: "I did 100 miles on the WI.DE. this weekend. It's really a much better road bike than you think!". So I write back that I like the WI.DE. as a road bike, in particular with one of those new 35mm road tires, but if he rode 28mm tires that's OK too. And he responds he's been on the Rock Razors the whole time.

Of course, if you know you're going to do just road, you can put a skinnier tire on and maybe even a deeper section 700c wheel. But if your rides mix on- and off-road, just ride the big tires and enjoy.

You may wonder why we went through this exercise? Well, because we have decided to make life easier for those who want our favorite spec (and a little more difficult for ourselves). So we will offer the WI.DE. also as a complete bike with this WI.DE. RANGE spec. I'm quite excited about it as I know there are people who have been waiting for this, who simply don't want the hassle of piecing together an OPEN. I get that, I'm the same way with many things (not with bikes, but I'm sure you understand).

How about simplifying life for ourselves? We've made improvements elsewhere in our operations, with more coming, so we can deal with a little added complexity now. Furthermore, this one complete build may actually save us time, as we don't need to recommend this build to people individually via email anymore. Time will tell.

To order, you can contact any of our retailers or check our online store.

Full spec list and full gallery below:

frame WI.DE. Grey gloss/matte
headset Cane Creek 40
fork OPEN U-Turn 
stem  Easton EA70, 70mm (S), 80mm (M), 90mm (L), 100mm (XL)
handlebar Easton EC70SL Carbon, 40cm (S), 42cm (M), 44cm (L & XL)
bartape Fizik Tempo Microtex black
seatpost Easton EC70 Carbon, 27.2 x 350
saddle Fizik Antares R7
brakes SRAM Force AXS, Rotors 160mm front & rear
shifters SRAM Force AXS 
crank  SRAM Force AXS Carbon, 170mm (S), 172.5mm (M), 175mm (L & XL)
BB SRAM DUB BB386
chainrings SRAM 40T
rear der. SRAM Eagle XX1 AXS
cassette SRAM CS-1275, 10-50T
chain SRAM Eagle
wheel DTSWISS GR-1600 Spline, 27.5"
tire Schwalbe Rock Razor, 27.5x2.35"
weight 8.9kg (size L)
price US$5900 (excl sales tax), €5900 (incl VAT)
to order local OPEN retailer or OPEN online store
   
 
 

 

Comments & Questions

OPEN
Hi ,building up a 1 plus , fox step cast 32 , 100mm 44 , 1x12 xtr , ?1 , running a continue gear cable , and wondering why u didn’t send a headtube guide , that would allow for that , plus looks like the bend at the chainstay and pt where cable leaves bb cable guide is going to rub on the inside of chain stay , could this cause problems long term , another reason I ran full length cable house , plus easier cable replace less contamination ?2 , clearance on chain stay to crankarm and rearstay , about 3mm each , is that an issue ?
Post #1 of 66. Posted by Gary Lunsky on 04-Oct-2019 13:19:48 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19783]
OPEN
If you want to run a full cable, all you need to do is drill out the headtube cable stop. The bend at the chain stay is no problem with the cable, because you can simply use the cable liner that ships with the frame. Minimum clearances are 2mm for the chainrings and 5mm for the crank at the pedal eye. If it is less, than it is probably not a real Boost crank.
Post #3 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Oct-2019 04:01:52 GMT in reply to post #1 [19783<--19786]
OPEN
What’s your recommendation for an OPEN UP build? I know it’s hard but give it a try.
Post #2 of 66. Posted by Dennis on 04-Oct-2019 18:54:08 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19784]
OPEN
As a first step, check out the build recommendations here: https://opencyc...ries. And of course you can also put the above build on it if you want the most capable setup, just with smaller tires and maybe a smaller range cassette for the reasons I mention above.
Post #4 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Oct-2019 04:05:17 GMT in reply to post #2 [19784<--19788]
OPEN
Okay thanks. I’ve decided on SRAM Red etap AXS, 46/33 and keeping it in the family with ZIPP 303 NSW wheelset,
ZIPP cockpit (bar, stem, seat post). Tires Gravel King SK 38. Undecided on saddle and pedals. Lizard Skins tape. May do a second wheelset with a 28-30 tire. Hopefully have it complete before the snow flies.
Post #5 of 66. Posted by Dennis on 05-Oct-2019 15:22:15 GMT in reply to post #4 [19788<--19790]
OPEN
I'm going the same way with the UPPER. Going with Enve Post, bars, bar tape, stem, and G23 wheels. WTB 40mm Byways. Prologo DIMENSION NDR CPC with Nack rails. Lastly, Xpedo M-FORCE 8 Ti pedals
Post #9 of 66. Posted by Steve on 06-Oct-2019 21:53:07 GMT in reply to post #5 [19790<--19798]
OPEN
How's the fender set for the wi.de coming? I haven't seen much update on it, and it's getting closer to the PNW rainy season!
Post #6 of 66. Posted by Eric on 05-Oct-2019 18:54:48 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19792]
OPEN
If we're not writing on it, it's because we're working on it! Some complications as always to make it exactly as we want, but it's coming.
Post #8 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 06-Oct-2019 05:54:17 GMT in reply to post #6 [19792<--19795]
OPEN
Any plans to make the UP compatible?
Post #20 of 66. Posted by JC on 10-Oct-2019 17:32:02 GMT in reply to post #8 [19795<--19812]
OPEN
No. The UP's fork will be compatible, but there's no clearance on the UP to add the fender.
Post #21 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 10-Oct-2019 18:56:33 GMT in reply to post #20 [19812<--19813]
OPEN
Hello. Love your bikes. Very well thought out. I have built an Open Upper and just bought another frame when you announced the WIDE frame.
Is there anyway I can do a swap. My open UPPER frame is still wrapped in styrofoam.
Cheers,
Post #7 of 66. Posted by Sean Ahmadi on 05-Oct-2019 20:35:44 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19793]
OPEN
Hi Sean, can you send me a mail (contact on the left) with you address and where you bought the frame. I will see what I can do for you.
Post #10 of 66. Posted by Andy Kessler on 07-Oct-2019 02:51:44 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19799]
OPEN
Hi. Would the 650B 2.35 Rock Razors fit an UPPER? Generally run 700c G-One Allround 38mm but struggling in the damp conditions. My commute is 4 mile x-country and 4 on tarmac (some gravel sections). No grip on the Allrounds now it's wet and muddy; the X-One Allrounds I've bought are getting ripped to shreds on the damp gravel part of the ride (the carcass is 127tpi) and I've been covered in Stans too many times now! Tried 650B Rocket Rons but very twitchy on the road/tarmac - the bike is too fast! Any thoughts?
Post #11 of 66. Posted by Andrew on 07-Oct-2019 12:04:15 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19801]
OPEN
No, the UP/UPPER fit up to 27.5x2.1" tires (depending on their true size of course), so you could look at something like a 2.0" WTB Ranger or a 2.1" Schwalbe Thunder Burt.
Post #14 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Oct-2019 15:15:21 GMT in reply to post #11 [19801<--19804]
OPEN
Wow this is an awesome build. Curious could one reasonably do 2x duty as a CX bike (with correct wheel / tire obviously)?
Post #12 of 66. Posted by Neil Ashton on 07-Oct-2019 13:28:36 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19802]
OPEN
Definitely, plenty people use the UP for Cross and using the WIDE is really no different (it's just newer so there hasn't been a cross season since it came out yet). That would mean a second wheel set obviously, but the nice thing is that you could run that second set with a much smaller range cassette (for example a Rotor 11-39. And if you then use an 11-50 on the 650b set, you could switch back and forth without even changing the chain length.
Post #13 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Oct-2019 15:11:52 GMT in reply to post #12 [19802<--19803]
OPEN
Or maybe you guys would consider a GRX version? Much as really love this build I am loath to go down "incompatibility road" again. Everything else I have is 11spd (except an S2 from the Vroomen- White era that is permanently stuck in 10spd.) and my primary road bike is 11spd disc ....... so it would be nice to be able to swap wheels which obviously 12spd negates. Yes I could build up a Wi.De or UP frameset but always at a higher cost than bike manufacturers get for groupsets.
Post #15 of 66. Posted by Neil Ashton on 07-Oct-2019 21:19:46 GMT in reply to post #13 [19803<--19805]
OPEN
Well, 11-sp and 12-sp wheels are compatible. Of course the cassettes are not, but as long as you have the 11-sp and 12-sp cassettes starting with the same smallest cog (10T or 11T), you would need the same cassette body - xD(r) respectively standard - and just have to swap cassettes.
Post #16 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 08-Oct-2019 05:03:17 GMT in reply to post #15 [19805<--19806]
OPEN
BTW, this idea that bike companies get the parts so much cheaper is no longer true, especially not for Shimano. Not sure if you have seen last month's Bike Of The Month with GRX Di2, but a store can put that together for $5200: https://opencyc...art-4
Post #17 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 08-Oct-2019 05:06:58 GMT in reply to post #15 [19805<--19807]
OPEN
So I literally saw that Orange GRX build right after prior reply. May go that way as swapping wheels w/o changes to cassettes (or different hub bodies) would be simpler.
Post #18 of 66. Posted by Neil Ashton on 08-Oct-2019 11:04:37 GMT in reply to post #17 [19807<--19809]
OPEN
Have you tried an Eagle AXS mech with the Rotor 11-39? This is my preferred range but I can’t get any info from anyone that it works.
Post #19 of 66. Posted by Guy on 08-Oct-2019 15:48:03 GMT in reply to post #13 [19803<--19810]
OPEN
Hi. Good point. Just about to configure my new up with my LBS - preferably based on SRAM AXS. Would love to see any option with wider cassette range, than 10-33 for the 46/33 crank.

Cheers from Munich
Post #22 of 66. Posted by Rafael on 11-Oct-2019 11:23:40 GMT in reply to post #19 [19810<--19814]
OPEN
Hi guys, nice bike in this setup but why do you choose this handlebar when there is the option of a gravel specific easton handelbar in the same price range (Easton EC70 AX Carbon) which in my oppinion fits better for a gravel bike monster like this bike is already. Is it poosible to get the complete bike with this handlebar?
Post #23 of 66. Posted by Jens on 14-Oct-2019 05:30:28 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19816]
OPEN
Two reasons:
1) Because we like a more traditional road bar (especially Andy). Yes it's a monster bike but we still want to go fast.
2) Because we don't like that gravel bar. The flare is awkward, and puts the hoods at the same angle as the flare, so now when you ride on the hoods, instead of having your hands on the ergonomic flat top surface of the hoods, you are resting on the edge of that surface, so a very small edge and high pressure. Not comfortable.

Of course it is always possible to get the bar exchanged if you really want that.
Post #24 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 14-Oct-2019 05:34:17 GMT in reply to post #23 [19816<--19817]
OPEN
Which size for 179cm ?
Thx a lot
Post #25 of 66. Posted by Tony Farris on 19-Oct-2019 06:10:54 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19823]
OPEN
M or L, both possible. Best to contact the Backyard bike shop in Zurich to try out, if they don't have a certain size they can get it quickly from us.
Post #29 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 21-Oct-2019 05:14:07 GMT in reply to post #25 [19823<--19828]
OPEN
Simply great!
Two reasons I am hasitating:
I do already have two CX/Gravel-Bikes and some others … ok, not really a reason …
I decided not to buy anymore a bike I`ve never been able to try before …
Difficult to do so, not only with OPEN, I know ….

Should I stay or should I go ....
Post #26 of 66. Posted by Jog on 20-Oct-2019 15:16:22 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19825]
OPEN
... hesitating...
Post #27 of 66. Posted by Jog on 20-Oct-2019 18:05:01 GMT in reply to post #26 [19825<--19826]
OPEN
Point 1 is a perfect reason not to buy. For point 2, you can always come visit us in Basel if you cannot find a bike to test ride nearby.
Post #28 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 21-Oct-2019 04:46:19 GMT in reply to post #27 [19826<--19827]
OPEN
Thanks Gerard, that might be an option... I `m living in Hamburg, but from time to time visiting Freiburg...
How ever:
I ´m 170 high, „Schrittlänge“ 79.
S or M ?
Thanks!!!
Post #32 of 66. Posted by Jürgen on 27-Oct-2019 07:54:52 GMT in reply to post #28 [19827<--19831]
OPEN
M
Post #33 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Oct-2019 07:57:59 GMT in reply to post #32 [19831<--19832]
OPEN
Ok, thx Gerard.
What whould be wrong about the S, which is recommended up to 171 cm ... isn`t it?
Just to be 100% shure... in case I` will not be able to visit OPEN in Basel.
Just a bit irritating that a bike may fit that fits also to those with 180 cm...
And once more thanks for your fast responses!
Jog
Post #34 of 66. Posted by Jog on 01-Nov-2019 18:25:34 GMT in reply to post #33 [19832<--19837]
OPEN
Hi Jog, not sure why that is irritating. I go not only by your height but also your inseam. But of course, the best fit is a full fit and test ride.
Post #35 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 04-Nov-2019 03:57:45 GMT in reply to post #34 [19837<--19839]
OPEN
Thx Gerard. It`s just that bike geometry in general is somewhat irritating for me.
Mainly the "Reach" vs. "Toptube length"-issue combined with some opinions "so called" specialists are having is something that's highly confusing (again: at least for me... I'm not ingenieur ;-)
Anyway, Thank for your advices.
Just have to decide now between the complete bike offer right from your online store or visiting Andreas and Dan in Hannover ...
(... or visiting OPEN in Basel in some months, but I fear I don't want to wait that long ...)
Best Regards, Jog
Post #36 of 66. Posted by Juergen Gehr on 04-Nov-2019 04:39:28 GMT in reply to post #35 [19839<--19840]
OPEN
Ingo + Dan ... not Andreas ...
Post #37 of 66. Posted by Jog on 04-Nov-2019 04:43:59 GMT in reply to post #36 [19840<--19841]
OPEN
Hi Juergen, the best advice I could give is to just completely ignore toptube length. I'd like to not even list it on our website, but then we'd get too many complaints from "experts". Anyway, the one reason why the S could be better would be if you had a very aggressive position. But the question then is of course if you will maintain such a position on gravel. As I said, can't beat a real fit, or if you have a current road bike you really like the fit of, just send me the details using the contact form on the left.

Bu the way, you can also get the complete bike through Ingo & Dan, they can order it for you after you have confirmed the Medium (or Small) is the best for you.
Post #38 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 04-Nov-2019 08:46:51 GMT in reply to post #36 [19840<--19842]
OPEN
Bike arrived yesterday.
10 km-test ride.
Very good! Enjoyed!
Will post more after having had more time to make more experiences!
Post #40 of 66. Posted by Jog on 19-Nov-2019 10:29:02 GMT in reply to post #38 [19842<--19845]
OPEN
I am most interested in the WI DE with your complete build set up. Could you please advise if I can also run a set of 700c wheels with a road/ light gravel oriented cassette (say 11x 39?) that would be just a wheel swap without having to change any other components or make adjustments? A wheelset buildup recommendation would be great IE cassette, tire and size, wheels rotors etc. Many thanks.
Post #30 of 66. Posted by Tim Furiate on 24-Oct-2019 15:30:02 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19829]
OPEN
Yes you can, the 11-39 ROTOR cassette is ideal for such a setup. And of course you keep rotors the same at 160mm. No parts changes needed (assuming you buy a second pair of rotors so you don’t have to swap those between the wheels).

One thing to make it easier would be to change the gravel wheelset to 11-50, then you have the same starting cog and thus the chain length is perfect all the time. It also works with the 10-50 cassette, but if you start with that and find you don’t need that much range, switching to 11-50 (SRAM) or 11-46 (ROTOR) would be a great idea.

For the road/gravel tires, you can go two general directions. (1) A bigger road tire (like a 35mm Pirelli Cinturato tubeless), where the tread is focussed on road but the volume makes it capable offroad, or (2) something like a Schwalbe G-One Allround in 35mm or 38mm with micro-knobs, so more focussed on the light gravel but still fast on pavement.
Post #31 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 25-Oct-2019 03:10:37 GMT in reply to post #30 [19829<--19830]
OPEN
Hi there, I'm currently on the search for a gravel bike and the WI.DE grey BOTM is almost exactly what I'm after (well, orange would be perfect... best colour ever!) One question regarding the wheelset. Is it in any way possible to order the complete builds with a 700c wheelset instead of 650b? Cheers from Zürich!
Post #39 of 66. Posted by Conor Robinson on 14-Nov-2019 12:38:53 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19843]
OPEN
Hi Conor, sorry for the delay, something went wrong here. Anyway, we can make that happen for you.
Post #42 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 25-Nov-2019 11:56:06 GMT in reply to post #39 [19843<--19856]
OPEN
Hi, this weekend I had my first 50 km Ride with the WI.DE. Great bike! I expected something different compared to my Gravel/CX-bikes. And I got something different! Great bike, great fun! It´s not that I don`t like my other bikes anymore. But different bike, different Fun!
The WI.DE is almost a new category ...

Ok, what I have to get used to: The SRAM Eagle AXS is a damn diva....
Post #41 of 66. Posted by Jog on 25-Nov-2019 11:22:37 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19855]
OPEN
Hello! my question is regarding the possibility to use 700c wheels, I would like to know if I could fit a 29x2.1 Thunder burt on the wide frame. If not what would be the maximum size I could fit on this frame, 50 Cm? 49? 48?

Thank you in advance for the help
Post #43 of 66. Posted by Luis Santos on 13-Dec-2019 11:49:24 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19938]
OPEN
Fitting such a big tire on any gravel bike would really distort the geometry. It works on a mountain bike which has a longer chain stay and a longer front-center, but on a gravel bike you would need a similarly long frame (to get clearance with the frames and not have massive toe overlap on the front). So you end up with a sluggish gravel bike or a bad mountain bike. But not the fast, agile handling you want.

Exact tire clearance is a function of the actual rim and tire used, but roughly up to 700x46c and after that you simply switch to 650b to get up to around 60mm.
Post #44 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 14-Dec-2019 08:19:55 GMT in reply to post #43 [19938<--19939]
OPEN
Hello Gerard, thank you very much for your clarification, I'm running an Orbea Terra (CX/ Gravel) as Orbea claims, but the geometry and stiffness are more close to CX, on this bike I do gravel rides, currently I use 700c X 48 ( Furios Fred 1.95 ) they are light and fast, but not much resistant ... Also the frame is on the clearance limit so.... I really like the geometry and good looking of Open frames, always ear good thing about Open, I was looking into the Open UP, since here in Portugal I met a store were I could see one live and I took a few clearance measurements, but the wide was my preference, not just because it has more clearance, but also because the color and geometry, since I'm looking for a gravel bike.

But I have no plans to go on 27,5" wheels.... I have the expectation of use this F. Fred tires, or maybe the new Schwalbe Bite ones, 2.0"..... But with the picture you made about this possibility, now I'm apprehensive...
Post #45 of 66. Posted by Luis Santos on 16-Dec-2019 11:10:23 GMT in reply to post #44 [19939<--19948]
OPEN
Let me ask you: You have a road bike too? What tire?
Post #46 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 16-Dec-2019 15:07:47 GMT in reply to post #45 [19948<--19949]
OPEN
Yes I have, 700x26
Post #47 of 66. Posted by Luis Santos on 16-Dec-2019 19:40:24 GMT in reply to post #46 [19949<--19951]
OPEN
My mistake, 28" wheels and 26 wide
Post #48 of 66. Posted by Luis Santos on 18-Dec-2019 16:53:39 GMT in reply to post #47 [19951<--19953]
OPEN
So you have a road bike with 700c wheels that are 26mm wide. 28" and 700c in this case is the same thing, unless you are talking about a city bike.

I am curious why you couldn't consider a 27.5" wheelset? Do you find the 28" wheel diameter you have now too small? Because a 27.5" wheel with a 47mm tire (the smallest you'd really find for gravel or RoadPlus as they call that size) has actually a bigger diameter than the wheel with 26mm tire you have now on your road bike. By going to 47/48mm on a 700c wheel, your diameter gets so much bigger that - as you noticed - many people get clearance issues. To solve that, you need a longer chain stay, longer front center, move up the head tube, etc. In short, you are taking the whole geometry away from that fast, fun road-like geometry and towards a mountainbike layout for the frame. Nothing wrong with that, but then it's better to get a real mountain bike, not a gravel bike with a geometry that is neither here nor there. So I would say the best solution if you want such big tires is to go 27.5" so that you can keep the same outside TIRE diameter as on your road bike and keep similar handling and fit. Whether that is on the Orbea or an OPEN is secondary.
Post #52 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Jan-2020 13:49:47 GMT in reply to post #48 [19953<--19971]
OPEN
Well I have a road bike, a mountain bike and "gravel" bike ( not so gravel ) my ideia about gravel is not to do road and not to do mountain bike trails , is to do gravel roads... so I do not want a 3 in 1 bike... I prefere 29 wheels , since they are better to roll on gravel roads, I find the need to have more or less 47 to 48 mm tires because were I ride, I have often soft sand so i need a little wider tires, but i don't need plus tires like 2.3 our 2.4, for me this will reduce the rolling properties of the bike since I will have more rubber on the ground.... I know that chunky tires will give me more comfort, but they will reduce the rolling capacity of the bike, and for me this is an important matter since I'm not a big guy... also I'm a some kind of a hostage of light weight tires.... so Furious Fred in 2.0 and Tunder Burt in 2.1 are two of the lightest 29" tires

About the wide frame, I'm a big fan of open frames, they are a beauty, and the reputation is excellent, I understand what you say about the chain stays, I know shorter chain stays will make a quicker bike , and I believe the problem will be mostly with the clearance between the tire and the seat tube... Recently I had the opportunity to see on facebook the R2bike Open Wide pictures with schwalbe bite tires... according them there is only about 2 to 3 mm clearance to seat tube... not really safe... I wonder maybe a simple cut to seat tube would solve this type issues and give us more clearance to the seat tube ...
Post #55 of 66. Posted by Luis Santos on 01-Jan-2020 17:04:18 GMT in reply to post #52 [19971<--19974]
OPEN
I'm not saying you want a 3-in-1 bike, on the contrary. But if you want a PERFORMANCE gravel bike, so not a 3 weeks in Mongolia with packs but going fast on gravel, then the geometry should be very close to a road bike and your position very close to a road position (and let the tires take care of the gravel). The chainstay length is one thing, but the front-center is even more important.

I am also not sure what you are exactly looking for, you mention you want more or less 47-48mm tires but then mention two tires that are obviously bigger. Either way, when you put a 47-48mm tire or the tires you mention on 27.5" wheels, you end up with wheels that are bigger in total diameter than your road wheels. going with 29er will make them yet another step bigger, making it hard to get a real performance geometry. Then you're better off getting something like a Salsa Cutthroat as it is really designed for large 29er tires with drop bars. But as you'll see, the geometry is more "3 weeks in Mongolia" than performance gravel.
Post #56 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Jan-2020 17:26:29 GMT in reply to post #55 [19974<--19975]
OPEN
Do you have size xs for complete build ?
Post #49 of 66. Posted by Fred Wong on 26-Dec-2019 02:20:29 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19962]
OPEN
Can you give some feedback and reasoning to go with an aluminum wheel in the GR 1600 versus say the GRC 1400? Obviously price is a major difference, but can you give some riding feedback on how these new wheels from DT Swiss ( GR 1600) compare to a carbon wheel? Is this wheel stronger?
Post #50 of 66. Posted by Charlie L. on 01-Jan-2020 01:42:38 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19969]
OPEN
The 1600 is a great wheel for a reasonable price (more expensive than most other alloy wheels but still reasonable). If people want carbon wheels, they are usually very particular about what they want: DT, ENVE, Zipp, Mavic, etc. So it doesn't make a lot of sense for us to offer the bike with a wheel set you may not like. Also, many of our customers end up with two wheel sets, 650b and 700c. And then it makes sense that (if you don't have unlimited budget), you put your "carbon dollars" into the 700c wheelset and not the 650b. So this 650b alloy set is great for that purpose.
Post #51 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Jan-2020 13:42:04 GMT in reply to post #50 [19969<--19970]
OPEN
Thanks Gerard!
Post #53 of 66. Posted by Charlie L. on 01-Jan-2020 14:46:33 GMT in reply to post #51 [19970<--19972]
OPEN
Gerard, Another question! What size would you suggest for me? I am 5 foot 7.5 inches with a 29 inch inseam. I currently ride a 54 Trek checkpoint ALR for reference.
Post #54 of 66. Posted by Charlie L on 01-Jan-2020 15:06:28 GMT in reply to post #51 [19970<--19973]
OPEN
That Trek is close to our Medium. So if you need the stack to get your bars high enough on the Trek, then I would stick to that Medium.
Post #57 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Jan-2020 17:27:25 GMT in reply to post #54 [19973<--19976]
OPEN
Hi Fred, unfortunately not but I can find you a dealer that can build it for you for the same price if that is of interest send me a mail. Contact is on the left of this screen
Post #58 of 66. Posted by Andy Kessler on 06-Jan-2020 01:53:40 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19982]
OPEN
On the WI.DE. size XL, how many spacer would be OK to use, 40mm? I could also use a 0 degree stem or flip a 6 degree, but usually do not look that good. I am 197cm tall with 98cm inseam, saddle height 850/855mm, carbon seat post 350 or 400mm, how long must the in-stick be?
Post #59 of 66. Posted by Mats Norden on 10-Jan-2020 08:07:22 GMT in reply to blog [0<--19987]
OPEN
I know that sometimes bikes are only available for a short time before something new comes out. Do you anticipate that the WI.DE. Range will only available for purchase as a complete build for a limited time? Do you have any new complete bikes for the ONE+ that are projected in the near future? Do you anticipate adding shocks to any of your forks? Thanks for your help!
Post #60 of 66. Posted by Julie Jones on 18-Jan-2020 23:33:10 GMT in reply to blog [0<--20021]
OPEN
Hi Julie, I don't see any meaningful changes coming to the WIDE complete bike. There can always be small tweaks based on availability or other stuff, but the SRAM AXS drivetrain is brand-new as is the frame, so the key parts definitely won't change.

No complete ONE+ planned, nor any suspension forks (for the gravel bikes I presume you mean). They defeat the purpose, they take a way the nimbleness and speed on fast surfaces. They may make it slightly faster on tough sections, but not enough to help in the overall mix and all you end up with is a gravel bike that rides like a bad mountain bike. Then it's better to get a full-on mountain bike.
Post #61 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 19-Jan-2020 14:22:43 GMT in reply to post #60 [20021<--20024]
OPEN
Is this build available through a local dealer for the same price? I have no option of ordering it online to have it delivered to my dealer.
Post #62 of 66. Posted by Matt on 26-Jan-2020 07:15:07 GMT in reply to blog [0<--20043]
OPEN
Hi Matt, by local dealer, do you mean a local OPEN retailer or just any bike shop? There are three ways to order this bike that in the end all cost the same:
1) Buy it online, have it shipped to your home and ride it after some minor assembly (although the work is minimal, for those not mechanically inclined we do recommend using a mechanic)
2) Buy it online and select to have it shipped to an OPEN retailer during the check-out process
3) Walk into an OPEN retailer and order it

If that doesn't cover what you have in mind, it's always best just to send us a message. We're here to make it work.
Post #63 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Jan-2020 02:50:06 GMT in reply to post #62 [20043<--20047]
OPEN
Hi Gerard,
you've pretty much answered my question in more detail than expected ;-) ... I meant an OPEN Dealer of course. I spoke to them a couple of days ago and they were surprised that you actually offer ordering it online (and paying it) and having it delivered to them. Will speak to them about the build.

Other question: is it possible to have crank length changed? I believe the 175 on the L would be too long for me.
Post #64 of 66. Posted by Matt on 27-Jan-2020 03:10:02 GMT in reply to post #63 [20047<--20048]
OPEN
Hi Matt, at this moment we cannot change the crank length but the retailer definitely can. Just have the retailer contact Andy with any questions.
Post #65 of 66. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Jan-2020 03:30:02 GMT in reply to post #64 [20048<--20050]
OPEN
Hi, short question to the 2 color grey model.
Part of the frame is in matte finish. How can I repaint the matte paint with touch up paint? Is it possible, or is it only possible to use it on the glossy part of the bike?

Why did you decide to make a part of the bike in matte finish?
Post #66 of 66. Posted by Dennis on 22-Feb-2020 02:07:16 GMT in reply to blog [0<--20124]
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