Classic U.P. vs New U.P. vs U.P.P.E.R.

The 3 members of the U.P. (Unbeaten Path) family all combine a road riding position with clearance for mountain bike tires. Get out of town on asphalt, hit the gravel roads or switch to singletrack. Your position gets you there fast; the big tires make you unstoppable.

The frame is available in three versions:

-The Classic U.P. with 3T Luteus II fork and post-mount disc brakes
-The New U.P. with OPEN U-Turn fork and flat-mount disc brakes
-The superlight U.P.P.E.R. with OPEN U-turn fork and flat-mount disc brakes

Every U.P. and U.P.P.E.R. shares the same shape, geometry, intended use and most importantly: tire clearance. But they differ in layup, weight, fork, disc brake mounts, thru-axles and colour.

Reviews & Awards

We’re honored that so many people believe in the direction the U.P. is taking. Most importantly of course our customers, but also the people behind the following awards and publications:

Eurobike Gold Award

“Apart from the frame’s attractive, eye-catching design, this cross bike’s open concept is value for money because it allows the attachment of different wheel sizes and types of tyre. Therefore, the U.P. is especially good at handling different sorts of terrain.”

Design & Innovation Gold Award

“In these exciting times, bikes are blurring the lines between the traditional definitions […] One perfect example is the new Open U.P., the ‘Unbeaten Path’– a bike defined as “GravelPlus,” but which offers so much more.

The design is beautifully crafted: a dropped chainstay allows for a super-compact 420 mm rear end, resulting in stiff and responsive power transfer, while ultra-thin seatstays add a degree of vertical compliance.

With relaxed and versatile geometry, the Open U.P. is more than a blending of genres, it’s a study in versatility offering endless possibilities, carving out a unique identity all its own. Never have the polar-opposite worlds of mountain biking and road biking been so connected.”

Road Bike Action Magazine

“With a frame design unlike any other that maximizes its versatility for both on- and off-road use, Gerard Vroomen engineered the best gravel bike to date.”

Velonews

“Ultimately, Open has created what the gravel category should aspire to: exceptional comfort and unparalleled versatility.”

Cyclist Magazine UK

“I’ve ridden other gravel bikes before and have often felt they compromise too much in the search for versatility – being sometimes sluggish on tarmac yet not quite capable of handling more technical trails. With 2.1-inch tyres and a light and stiff build, the UP is very different.

A lot of brands so far have seen the possibilities for widening the scope of road riding, with slacker geometries, and the increased tyre clearance made possible by disc brakes. Yet Open has seemingly sprung light years ahead, fully realising the potential of modern tyre, wheel and frame technology. This is truly a rare and exceptional bike, and one that has literally broken new ground.”

Bicycling Magazine

“The Open U.P. will change where you ride. A long-term review of this gravel/’cross/road bike proves that it really is as versatile as it promises.

It feels natural on pavement and somehow still takes to the dirt like it was designed for it—a blend I’ve yet to experience with other bikes.”

Outside Magazine Road bike of the Year

“… adventure road and gravel bikes, a segment that continues to expand. We have half a dozen in the test this year, and they continue to become lighter and more refined over previous year’s iterations. The most promising of the fleet is the Open Unbeaten Path with geometry that makes it plenty comfortable on the pavement but optimized for very large tires. That makes this possibly the most versatile road bike out there as it can move seamlessly from group rides in a peloton to proper singletrack. There’s no consensus from testers yet about which wheel size they prefer.

The UP finally fulfills the promise of mixed-surface bikes, and we hope that other manufacturers will take note.”

Peloton Magazine

“What is truly amazing is the attention Open paid to making it work exceptionally well is making [the U.P.] work exceptionally well in every one of these configurations. The U.P. doesn’t just accept these different [wheel/tire] standards - each feel native.

Of course, their stated motto is ‘Working hard to stay small’. The quality and versatility of the Open U.P. might make that very difficult.”

Tour magazin

“The compact build and the weight of barely 8kg give the bike an agility you don’t expect with these big tires.

This bike exceeded my already high expectations.

An incredible bike. Despite the mountain bike tires, you feel like you’re riding a road bike.

Innovative frame concept, smart details, light. With this versatility, the U.P. will likely offer an important push to the development of all gravel bikes.”

GearJunkie

“I immediately noticed how fast the bike was off the line. As expected, the carbon was stiff and responsive, applying force directly from pedal to pavement. The bike rocketed around town and to the trailhead much more aggressively than a mountain bike.

Once on the gravel, the bike flowed into its comfort zone. With less aggressive geometry than a true cyclocross bike, it churned through the miles in comfort and inspired 'one more detour before we go home' type riding.”

For all other U.P. reviews and tests, please refer to the Reviews section at the bottom of this page.

Tire clearance

The U.P. fits mountain bike tires up to 2.1” wide. But you can also fit a 40mm cross tire, or a 28mm road tire, or anything else in-between (exact tire sizes depend on manufacturing tolerances and rim width, so this is a guideline. Always make sure you have 6mm clearance between tire and frame).

How do we fit such a wide range of tires without affecting the handling? Let's start with the numbers; below is the outside radius for various wheel+tire combos:

RadiusRimTire
341mm700c/29er28mm road
344mm700c/29er32mm cross
350mm700c/29er40mm cross
342mm650b/27.5"2.1" mtb
365mm700c/29er2.1" mtb

As you can see, the top-4 wheel+tire combos (700c cross/road tires and 650b mountain bike tire) are very close in radius, the bottom one (the 29er mountain bike tire) is way off.

So you’ll hardly notice a difference in geometry swapping 700c cross/road and 650b mountain bike tires on the U.P., while 29er tires would make a total mess of the handling.

There is a second reason we designed for 650b and not 29er tires. They would require very long chainstays, while the U.P. now sports a very short 420mm rear end. Most gravel and cross bikes have longer chainstays than that yet they can't fit anywhere near the same size of tire.

Crank clearance

Behind the bottom bracket, the chainrings, frame and tire all fight for space. And with the need to fit big mountain bike tires and narrow Q-factor cross/road cranks & chainrings, the U.P. presents the toughest possible packaging problem.

Dropping the right chainstay moves it out of this crowded area, allowing it to be wider and therefore stiffer (a huge effect; with the same amount of material, twice the width will give you eight times the stiffness!).

TRCinTRS™ technology

“100% hi-modulus carbon”, “aero-space grade”, etc. Useless – and hopefully false (we’ll get to that) – claims meant to impress you.

It’s not about high- or low-modulus, it’s about the right carbon in the right spot. And because the bike industry loves techie-sounding abbreviations, we’ll humor them and call it TRCinTRS™.

Fact: stiffer carbon is more brittle. Strategically placed ultra-high-modulus carbon is a good idea. Making the whole headtube out of it when you have big impact loads is not!

The best lay-up is not 100% of one modulus; it’s a blend. We use the highest modulus (stiffest) carbon of any bike manufacturer where we can, and tougher grades of carbon where we must. That’s how our frames are both light and durable.

For the U.P. and the U.P.P.E.R., we use different lay-ups, meaning the shapes of the plies and the ratio between the different materials is different for the two models, with the U.P.P.E.R. using an extremely complex lay-up.

Wire-stays

The rear triangle has to provide lateral stiffness for an efficient drive train, but vertical compliance for better comfort. The U.P. features chainstays and seatstays that are extremely thin vertically to provide that compliance, while their lateral width and layup ensure rock-solid propulsion. Truly the best of both worlds.

Flat-out downtube

The downtube is the key for stiffness, connecting the steering center of your frame with the drivetrain. The flat-out downtube’s characteristically flat outside faces allow us to strategically place strips of ultra-high modulus carbon far away from the center plane. The stiffest carbon exactly where it matters, guaranteed!

Zero-setback seattube

With a minimalist 27.2mm diameter we maximize the flex in our seatpost & seattube. This is especially a big plus on rough terrain. The seattube angle is designed around the use of a straight, zero-setback seatpost rather than a regular seatpost with setback (we’ve never understood those). Zero-setback posts are lighter, saving you another 10-30 grams (every little bit helps and you can then put that saved weight into a 500g saddle like the Brooks!).

Fully-internal cables/hoses

External cables & hoses collect dirt, risk getting stuck behind objects (particularly expensive with electronic shifting) and frankly, they are ugly. So the U.P. runs them internally.

With our proven MultiStop design, you can customize the frame for 2x10/11, 1x10/11 and Di2 shifting. Just pick the right insert. In case you run a single chainring, you can also remove the front derailleur hanger to further clean up the frame.

ThruThread dropouts

Most thru-axle frames are heavier than quick-release frames. Extra carbon for the dropouts, heavy hangers, and the axle itself. But they are stiffer, So what do you want most? The answer for most people is “both”, and so we introduce the first frames that combine a thru-axle with a lower weight. How?

The ThruThread design uses the same threads that hold the thru-axle to lock the derailleur hanger into the frame. Simple, light, effective.

We didn’t just redesign the dropout, the entire seatstay and chainstay design is optimized with the added stiffness of the thru-axle in mind. For the thru-axle itself, we recommend the stiffest design available, the Syntace X-12, but you are free to use a different 12mm thru-axle if you want.

Disc brake mounts

One of the key differences between the Classic U.P. on the one hand and the new U.P. and U.P.P.E.R. on the other is the disc mount standard. The Classic U.P. uses post-mount, the other two are designed for flat-mount. We don't like how the bike industry keeps “inventing” new standards, so we always investigate if they are an improvement before we use them.

Post-mount brake calipers work very well, and the main argument for flat-mount is that it looks better (sigh) while a significant drawback is that the front brake always requires an adapter for mounting, adding weight and reducing braking efficiency.

So why did we decide to offer the U.P.P.E.R. with flatmounts? Three reasons:

1.Shimano has decided to make the new DuraAce group only available for flat-mount. So to use their top group, you need a flat-mount frame or an adapter to fit post-mount brakes on a flat-mount frame.
2.SRAM does offer all its brakes in flat-mount and post-mount versions, but the flat-mount calipers are lighter.
3.We came up with the U-turn, a new fork that accepts flat-mount calipers without the need for that silly adapter. So that disadvantage is eliminated for OPEN.

In conclusion, to use the lightest possible brakes from both Shimano and SRAM, you need their flat-mount brakes. And thanks to the U-turn fork, you can make those set-ups even lighter by removing the normally required adapter. A win-win.

U-turn

For the U.P.P.E.R., we designed a new fork that accepts flat-mount calipers without the need for an adapter. So you can get your Shimano or SRAM flat-mount caliper, remove the standard adapter it comes with, and bolt it directly onto our fork.

This saves weight and increases the stiffness of the braking system.

We do this by making the fork dedicated for 160 mm brake rotors (140 mm is a bad idea anyway on this type of bike) and using the same through-bolt design that is normally reserved for the rear.

Some may not like the exposed bolt heads on the front of the fork leg instead of them being hidden, but we actually like it. It’s a technically superior design, so this engineering choice should be clearly visible.

But the U-turn fork doesn't just save you weight on the flat-mount brake, it is also extremely light itself. At 375 grams, it is by far the lightest fork that fits GravelPlus tires. And to save even more weight, it is comes with an extremely light 12mm Carbon-Ti custom axle

So the U.P.P.E.R. ships standard with the U-turn. Since the U.P. is a post-mount frame, it ships with a post-mount fork, the 3T Luteus II.

Toptube bag mount

For handy storage of your phone, camera, some tools or food, you can use the toptube bag mounts. It fits the standard toptube bags from for example Dark Speed Works and XLab as well as dedicated ruggedized bags from for example Revelate Designs.

SafePost™ Pilot hole

Seatposts usually indicate a minimum insertion dimension. That keeps the seatPOST safe, but it’s also important that the seatTUBE is supported properly. The minimum insertion for that is indicated by the SafePost Pilot hole.

Bottom bracket

The U.P. uses the 386 EVO bottom bracket standard. The wide (86mm) BB shell is perfect to attach the dropped drive-side chainstay to. Furthermore, it fits most of the cranks on the market, from Shimano and SRAM but also smaller brands like THM and Rotor. 386 EVO even allows for the installation of many mountain bike cranks. Not all versions of each crank fit though, so be sure to check with your local OPEN retailer if you have questions.

Geometry

Clearance for cross, road and mountain bike tires, a cross/road position and compatibility with cross/road & mountain bike drivetrains make the U.P. geometry the most complicated we’ve ever worked on. But we’re ecstatic about the result.

Keep in mind that the seattube is designed to be offset, so that your seatpost doesn't have to be. This saves a bit of weight. It also means that the toptube length appears a bit longer than the frame really is, yet another reason why toptube length is a bad measurement to rely on. Best to use stack and reach.



size
rider
height¹
standover²
fork
axle-crown
fork
offset
headtube
angle
seattube
angle
seattube
length
toptube
length
headtube
length
BB
drop
stack
reach
front
center
rear
center
wheelbase
S
5’2" - 5’8"
743
395
50
69.5°
72.5°
520
528
105
70
522
365
592
420
1002
M
5’7" - 5’11"
767
395
50
71.0°
72.5°
540
549
130
70
551
376
598
420
1008
L
5’10" - 6’3"
791
395
50
72.5°
72.5°
560
570
155
70
580
387
604
420
1014
XL
6’2" - 6’7"
815
395
50
72.5°
72.5°
580
591
180
70
604
401
622
420
1032
¹These suggested rider heights are approximations, there is no substitute for a complete fit analysis including several body dimensions or the measurements of the current set-up of your gravel/cross/road bike.
²Standover height is measured to the top of the toptube directly above the bottom bracket and depends slightly on the exact tire size used.

As you can see, the chainstays are quite short for a cross/gravel bike, despite the ability to fit the massive 54mm tires in. That's one of the benefits of the dropped drive-side chainstay.

If you have any questions about the geometry or need sizing advice, you can send Gerard a message using the Contact form on the left.

Specifications

Classic U.P.New U.P.U.P.P.E.R.
Frameset Price (USD, excl. sales tax)2,6003,2004,500
Frame-only weight size M, grams, ±3%1,1001,040880
Fork-only weight, grams, ±3%460390370
Sizes S/M/L/XL
3T Luteus II fork
OPEN U-turn fork
Colour: OPEN Orange
Colour: OPEN Brown
Colour: OPEN Green
Colour: OPEN Blue
Colour: Matte black
Ready-to-paint finish
BB386EVO pressfit 86x46mm BB shell
Shimano road cranks
SRAM GXP road cranks
SRAM Force 1 BB30 cranks
Flat rings for 1x set-ups recommended
Max 1x flat ring size50t50t50t
Max 1x SRAM ring size 46t46t46t
Max 2x ring size50/3650/3650/36
Standard Syntace X-12 rear thru-axle
Superlight Carbon-Ti X-12 rear thru axle
Standard 3T 15mm front thru axle
Superlight Carbon-Ti 12mm front thru axle
Front disc post-mount 160/180mm
Front disc flat-mount 160mm only
Rear disc post-mount 160mm only
Rear disc flat-mount 140/160mm
MultiStop internal cables for 1x11, 2x11, Di2
Integrated headset IS42/28.6 | IS52/40
Seatpost diameter 27.2mm
3rd bag/cage mount lower downtube
TT bag mount 100mm front-post-to-headset-edge
Incl. in box: Frame, fork, headset, seattube collar, front & rear thru-axle, 2 rear derailleur hangers, 1 removable front derailleur mount, cover bolts for front derailleur mount posts, 3 MultiStops (2x, 1x, Di2), chainstay cable exit stop, BB guide, cable sleeves, noise-reduction foam sleeves, bottle cage bolts, manual

Tech-Info

U.P. Shift cable installation

U.P. Brake hose installation

OPEN Seatpost clamp

U.P. crank compatibility (+ SRAM BB30 trick)

Galleries

Enjoy the general image gallery for the U.P. or U.P.P.E.R. or select one of the thumbnails underneath to see our special Bike Of The Month photos and specs.

 
U.P. Overview

 
U.P.P.E.R. Overview

December-2015
Bike Of The Month

February-2016
Bike Of The Month

March-2016
Bike Of The Month

May-2016
Bike Of The Month

July-2016
Bike Of The Month

September-2016
Bike Of The Month

January-2017
Bike Of The Month

March-2017
Bike Of The Month

April-2017
Bike Of The Month

September-2017
Bike Of The Month

Reviews

English
Deutsch
Français
Nederlands
Svenska

Comments & Questions

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OPEN
Just got mine last week after an initial fitting and then another at delivery time , from The Eleven. A very professional experience at the store which nailed my decision to purchase my Open. I've been road biking for pleasure and fitness doing 80-100 km rides regularly for the past 40 years and this bike is such a pleasure to ride. Very responsive and beautifully finished , the Di2 system is amazing ! I can only assume as I become more accustomed to the Open UP I will enjoy the bike even more.
Post #1 of 440. Posted by Robert Kennedy on 02-May-2016 22:06:58 GMT [0<--631]
OPEN
Hi Robert. Happy trails enjoy it
Post #19 of 440. Posted by Andy Kessler on 21-Jun-2016 10:31:10 GMT [631<--740]
OPEN
mudguard option on this bike ?
Post #2 of 440. Posted by Najib on 12-May-2016 08:51:02 GMT [0<--658]
OPEN
Clip on mudguards are an option, just make sure you keep enough clearance with the tires.
Post #3 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 13-May-2016 00:21:35 GMT [658<--661]
OPEN
As we enter into rainy & winter seasons for many of us, have you tried various clip on fenders/mudguards to see what works (and just as importantly what doesn't work) out of the box without MacGyvering them given the relatively unique fork on the Open UP so that lots of your early adopters don't each have to do a bunch of trial and error? I'm interested in ones that will work with 700 tires with 35-40mm widths.
Post #146 of 440. Posted by Brian on 09-Oct-2016 10:17:26 GMT [661<--1024]
OPEN
Well to be honest, I'm more a good shoe cover + ass saver kind of guy. One thing I can tell you though, in the rear no full fender will work with a TRUE 40mm tire, there won't be space between tire and seat tube. With a "40mm" tire that is really smaller (that includes most "40mm" tires), you may have space.
Post #147 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 09-Oct-2016 14:54:51 GMT [1024<--1026]
OPEN
What's the wheelbase on the Large? Is this a more stable ride than most cycle cross bikes?
Post #4 of 440. Posted by on 20-May-2016 21:23:49 GMT [0<--689]
OPEN
988mm. What does stable mean for you? Lots of different definitions so if you let me know what you mean by that, I'll try to answer the best I can.
Post #6 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 26-May-2016 16:26:49 GMT [689<--703]
OPEN
I ride a road bike with a lower bottom bracket, longer chain stays, fork rake, etc. The wheelbase is 101 cm. I used to ride a Cervelo Soloist and loved it in certain conditions. But the steering was too quick for me, and I was not confident on high speed descents. I like the longer wheel base of endurance geometries. I understand most cross bikes have a higher bottom bracket. The U.P. has a lower BB, but the chain stays are shorter. I'm curious about the ride characteristics and have not seen much commentary related to that. Thanks for your help.
Post #8 of 440. Posted by Guy Hummel on 31-May-2016 12:19:21 GMT [703<--709]
OPEN
Hi Guy, rather than hearing from me, you'll see quite a few comments on the geometry and the handling in the reviews section on this page. I know some people are skeptical about magazine reviews and how they may be influenced by advertising (in general I don't find that to be the case but it does happen), but remember that we do not do ANY advertising, so we didn't "buy" any of those reviews. And most are pretty positive (actually extremely positive) about the handling. If you read the latest reviews (listed on the top), those are the most in-depth as they are several long-term reviews. And if you read German, I would really suggest the TOUR review.
Post #9 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Jun-2016 17:48:33 GMT [709<--716]
OPEN
what is the wheelbase for size medium?
Post #18 of 440. Posted by nolan g. on 16-Jun-2016 23:47:21 GMT [703<--737]
OPEN
1008mm, see last column of the geometry chart.
Post #20 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 22-Jun-2016 14:49:46 GMT [737<--746]
OPEN
Hi Gerard/Andy,
I see quite some pictures of an UP frameset with the new Lauf Grit suspension fork.
Will this fork work with the UP regarding geometry, or asked in a different way will it change the riding behavior in a negative manner?
Are there plans to have a complete set with the Lauf fork instead of the standard 3T Luteus? And if so, will it be already in the orange/brown custom color?
I know it will take a few months before Lauf will be able to deliver the forks, but I am planning on building my UP in Q3 of this year.

Thanks and loving your work,

Michiel Janssen
Post #5 of 440. Posted by on 24-May-2016 17:19:32 GMT [0<--699]
OPEN
Hi Michiel, yes, you can fit the Lauf Grit on the UP no problem. Andy is just building up a new bike with it, so expect some more feedback on it soon. It's unlikely that a frameset including the Grit would be offered in a color-matched way, the logistics of that are just not fun :-). but Lauf does seem to make the black fork with orange accents that is a good match for the UP.
Post #7 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 26-May-2016 16:28:23 GMT [699<--704]
OPEN
if an axel is provided how does the existing wheel axel is there a video on how to deal with rear wheel changes?
thanks
Post #10 of 440. Posted by on 03-Jun-2016 17:34:03 GMT [0<--720]
OPEN
Hi there, I am not sure I understand the question. The 12mm Syntax X-12 rear thru-axle is included, so any 142x12mm thru-axle compatible wheel you have, you pop it in there and then put the X-12 through. Although there are different 12 mm axle standards, this does not matter for the wheel. All 142x12mm wheels are compatible. The fact that there are different 12 mm axles only affects how they connect with the frame, so that's not a worry for the wheel.
Post #11 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 03-Jun-2016 19:03:23 GMT [720<--721]
OPEN
thanks now I understand I wasn't familiar with the thru axle technology
I don't see a skewer on the real wheel axle
is an ex key used?
Post #12 of 440. Posted by Giulio Porta on 03-Jun-2016 23:15:15 GMT [721<--723]
OPEN
Hi Giulio, no problem. And yes, a hex key is used in the rear.
Post #13 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Jun-2016 03:34:54 GMT [723<--724]
OPEN
is the front axle width 15 mm ?
I have trouble finding a through axle wheel set
lots of separate rear wheels what's a good brand name that will provide both wheels for them open?
Thanks
Post #14 of 440. Posted by on 05-Jun-2016 11:55:30 GMT [0<--725]
OPEN
Lots of options really. Which wheels were you looking at and we can help you figure out how to get them thru-axle specific or suggest a close alternative. Sometimes you have to look more at the MTB options of brands (ENVE for example), but also in road/cross/gravel there are options. I'm a bit partial to 3T and HED for obvious reasons, and the entire road wheel disc brake line from 3T is compatible with 15mm axles. So all Discus and Discus Plus wheels, alloy and carbon, and they are compatible right out of the box (end caps for 12mm and 15mm are included). The disc brake Ardennes from HED are also 15mm compatible, you just have to order the correct end caps. And there are many more.
Post #15 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 06-Jun-2016 12:44:01 GMT [725<--727]
OPEN
Just wondering when the discusplus will be available in Canada? I want a set to complement my Open UP and run the beautiful WTB Horizons. 3T website says temporarily out of stock. Many Thanks
Post #65 of 440. Posted by Derek on 01-Sep-2016 11:40:45 GMT [727<--931]
OPEN
Hi Derek, I think you're in the GTA? Best to check with Endurosport, they should be able to enquire for you. I know 3T is just rolling them out in the various countries.
Post #68 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Sep-2016 18:48:23 GMT [931<--934]
OPEN
Where can I test ride a medium sized frame in Texas? I live in Houston and would travel for a test ride. Very interested in your concept.
Post #16 of 440. Posted by on 08-Jun-2016 16:38:45 GMT [0<--731]
OPEN
That's a good question. We have several stores that carry OPEN and the U.P. in Texas, but you'd have to call them to see what exactly they have in stock. Given the demand for the U.P. the stock levels fluctuate quickly and are usually quite low, so even if we know we shipped a store a Medium a few days ago, they may not have it anymore. So best to call and make sure they set it aside until you arrive.
Post #17 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 12-Jun-2016 13:26:12 GMT [731<--732]
OPEN
Hej, I'm interested in an Open U.P. (as many here) but dealers are pretty rare yet. How can I find out the right size for the frame set. Don't want to spend the money into the wrong size. With 180cm and an inside leg of 86cm I'd chose an L (?) Appreciate your advice. Cheers ToM
Post #21 of 440. Posted by on 23-Jun-2016 17:14:38 GMT [0<--749]
OPEN
Hi Tom, best to email me using the contact form at left. Send also any info you have about your current cross or road bikes (make, model, size) and then we'll figure it out together.
Post #50 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 03-Aug-2016 10:51:23 GMT [749<--841]
OPEN
Hi Gerard - I'd like to use a Deore XT 11-40T Cassette w/ an Ultegra 6800 Long Cage Rear Mech. This, I understand, will require a Derailleur Optimizer. I'm thinking of using Wolf Tooth Components' RoadLink ...
http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/derailleur-optimization/products/roadlink
Will
this component work w/ the Open U.P. Rear Derailleur Hanger? Also, will it work w/ the 3T Exploro's Rear Derailleur Hanger? - Thanks, Jan.
Post #22 of 440. Posted by on 24-Jun-2016 08:15:52 GMT [0<--750]
OPEN
Hi Jan, the RoadLink is a great tool and as far as I have seen it works on our derailleur hanger. Of course it's not "Shimano recommended" so I can't say if there is any situation in which it won't work, but I've only heard positive feedback on it.
Post #25 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Jun-2016 08:13:58 GMT [750<--758]
OPEN
Can we use the new hang loose hanger on the Open UP?
Post #66 of 440. Posted by Derek on 01-Sep-2016 12:16:11 GMT [758<--932]
OPEN
No, virtually all frames on the market come with specific hangers to match the frame and this is no exception.
Post #69 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Sep-2016 18:49:20 GMT [932<--935]
OPEN
Since the frame uses a braze-on style front derailleur, what is the MINIMUM outer chainring size, assuming typical road front derailleurs? There are a growing number of "gravel"-targeted cranksets available with 46/30, 48/32, and even 44/28 ring combinations, that would one might want to combine with the UP.
Post #23 of 440. Posted by on 25-Jun-2016 14:18:07 GMT [0<--751]
OPEN
All of those work on the U.P.
Post #24 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Jun-2016 08:11:59 GMT [751<--757]
OPEN
Do you have any recommendations on the "optimal" double ring configuration that would allow us to both keep up with (I really mean outrace ;P) our road-loving buddies while also being able to easily tackle the "shortcut" through the woods? I know it's generally a very personal thing, but I'd be interested to know what your thoughts are specifically on double ring setups for the U.P. A 46/30 with 11x32? 50/34 with 11x28?
Post #111 of 440. Posted by bryan on 22-Sep-2016 03:33:28 GMT [757<--982]
OPEN
You can check the specs of my "Orange Muddafukkah" in the Showcase section: I'm very pleased with front 46/34 and rear 10-42.
Post #247 of 440. Posted by Bengan on 02-Mar-2017 11:38:30 GMT [982<--1545]
OPEN
Hej Gerard,

what about using a Rotor Rex1 with a 42/26 combination? This would be a great combination for the long, steep ascents here in the Julian Alps and I could reuse my SRM crankset with 120/80mm BCD. Is there a difference between the minimum outer chainring size between the U.P. and the UPPER?
Post #401 of 440. Posted by David on 22-Aug-2017 16:43:07 GMT [757<--6993]
OPEN
It can fit, but the disadvantage is that the Q factor of mountain bike cranks is much bigger, so it sort of negates the point of the UP; to ride with a good road position and fit and be fast, and then let the tires take care of the terrain.
Post #402 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 22-Aug-2017 16:50:17 GMT [6993<--6994]
OPEN
Could you tell us where these can be sourced please? I can't find these anywhere...
Post #117 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 25-Sep-2016 21:08:31 GMT [751<--992]
OPEN
Please let us know where to find these "gravel"-targeted cranksets available with 46/30, 48/32, and even 44/28 ring combinations....
I can't find them anywhere!
Post #118 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 25-Sep-2016 21:26:54 GMT [751<--993]
OPEN
KCNC, White Industries and for 2017 FSA. I use a KCNC 46/30 crankset on my road bike in combination with a campa record groupset. It works very good. I use this combination for climing in alps. I hope this helps.
Post #138 of 440. Posted by dip on 02-Oct-2016 04:26:40 GMT [993<--1015]
OPEN
Does this frame have fender or rack mounting bosses?
Post #26 of 440. Posted by on 04-Jul-2016 01:08:48 GMT [0<--781]
OPEN
No it does not. It works with clip-on fenders.
Post #27 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Jul-2016 11:48:08 GMT [781<--784]
OPEN
What version of the fork is it? Team Stealth?
Post #28 of 440. Posted by on 10-Jul-2016 12:47:35 GMT [0<--788]
OPEN
And which type toptube case do you recommend? I see that the have several modell, but which size is the better one?
Post #29 of 440. Posted by Stian on 11-Jul-2016 18:44:22 GMT [788<--789]
OPEN
It really depends. Right now most bags that use the toptube bolts are originally designed for triathlon, so they are on the small side. Great for tools, phone, some food, etc. Then if you want bigger, you can go with something like the Apidura or Revelate or similar, and those carry more but the set-up on the frame is not as clean as it is when using the bolts obviously. I do expect bigger bags that use the bolts to appear in the next few months.
Post #31 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 12-Jul-2016 11:21:54 GMT [789<--791]
OPEN
It's a custom-painted version of the Luteus II, and not really stealth in orange!
Post #30 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 12-Jul-2016 11:16:44 GMT [788<--790]
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I was wondering mostly because of the weight question. Lightweight is nice... ;-)
Post #35 of 440. Posted by Stian on 16-Jul-2016 18:26:53 GMT [790<--798]
OPEN
OK, but the TEAM and TEAM stealth version weight about the same and so does ours at approx 550g before cutting the steerer.
Post #39 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Jul-2016 23:10:15 GMT [798<--802]
OPEN
Hi,
I've been offered a used Open up with the following spec:
2016 Open cycles U.P gravel plus bike size XL.
SRAM force 1 X 11 hydro groupset with Rotor 3D chainset and Q ring 44T with 11/32 cassette.
Zipp service course 30 wheel set with matching service course seat post, stem and SL70 bars.
Selle Italia Ti railed saddle
What would be the standard price to pay for this set-up?
Greetings
Elie
Post #32 of 440. Posted by on 13-Jul-2016 15:44:01 GMT [0<--793]
OPEN
Hi Elie, we don't sell complete bikes, only the frameset (which is 2900 euro), so not sure how much all the rest would cost exactly.
Post #33 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 14-Jul-2016 21:01:55 GMT [793<--796]
OPEN
Value = the price someone is prepared to pay, economics 101.
I know the bike you are referring to, if it was my size, I would have bought along time ago. It's a steal!
Post #61 of 440. Posted by Robin on 21-Aug-2016 10:11:49 GMT [793<--899]
OPEN
Do you have dealers in England?
Post #34 of 440. Posted by on 16-Jul-2016 16:28:26 GMT [0<--797]
OPEN
Yes we do, if you check on the "dealers" page (menu top right) you will see all their details.
Post #37 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Jul-2016 23:07:30 GMT [797<--800]
OPEN
I'm looking for a bike to replace my aging cannodale silk tour 700. Finally looks like some geormetries are emerging that may compete with its all terrain capability!
Is there anywhere I could test ride a bike in Melbourne Australia. The UP is definitely on my shortlist!
Post #36 of 440. Posted by on 17-Jul-2016 07:19:02 GMT [0<--799]
OPEN
Best to ask our Australian distributor, they will know best which retailer has what in stock right now: krischan@eightyonespices.com.au
Post #38 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Jul-2016 23:09:06 GMT [799<--801]
OPEN
Hej, i m riding mine in Adelaide Size L.
Cheers,
Martin
Post #52 of 440. Posted by Martin on 04-Aug-2016 08:10:19 GMT [799<--845]
OPEN
Very impressed about the bike. How do I become an authorized distributor in Russia? Thank you.
Post #40 of 440. Posted by on 19-Jul-2016 09:55:53 GMT [0<--807]
OPEN
Best to contact Andy about and sales & distribution questions. You can use the CONTACT tab on the left of this page (or bottom in some mobile screens).
Post #46 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 21-Jul-2016 08:59:58 GMT [807<--816]
OPEN
Looks like a great bike to downsize the road/cross/xc/ etc clutter. I don't seem to see any photos of the bike with road tires, just wondering how it looks (I know sounds shallow; but if i can get excited about it as a road bike between off road rides, it will be the ticket). Can you point me at any?

Also, any plans for an edition with stealth fender attachment points? I live in a rainy place, and all that great clearance... Think something like the Norco Theshold points.
Post #41 of 440. Posted by on 20-Jul-2016 13:09:12 GMT [0<--809]
OPEN
Hi there, we don't have any photos of the bike with road tires but if you go the the SHOWCASE section in the top menu, you will find plenty of U.P.s as spec'd by our customers including some with road tires.
Post #42 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 20-Jul-2016 21:34:59 GMT [809<--811]
OPEN
The only fender options contemplated for th U.P. are clip-on fenders.
Post #43 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 20-Jul-2016 21:35:47 GMT [809<--812]
OPEN
Hi Gerard/Andy, I currently ride a Cervelo R5 56cm. Would like to pick get one of your U.P. rides. I think it will be my new daily ride. I may need to purchase via the web, so I am not sure what size I would need. Assuming a medium, but don't want to chance it, so asking the question. Thanks in advance for your help.
Post #44 of 440. Posted by on 20-Jul-2016 23:53:39 GMT [0<--813]
OPEN
Best to shoot me a message via the CONTACT tab on the left of the screen.
Post #45 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 21-Jul-2016 08:58:33 GMT [813<--815]
OPEN
Hello,

I would like to use my SI SL Hollowgram crank on my up but I just have no idea of the length needed for the axle... Can you help me?
Post #47 of 440. Posted by coco86 on 25-Jul-2016 17:40:21 GMT [0<--822]
OPEN
The BB386 uses an 86mm BB shell so the axle has to be able to go through. I do not think the Hollowgram crank works for that.
Post #48 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 26-Jul-2016 11:18:21 GMT [822<--823]
OPEN
I have checked and custumiced 4 different axels but it was not necessary :o(. Maybe you have someone with a cnc machine to creat a perfect one.
Post #53 of 440. Posted by Martin on 04-Aug-2016 08:14:05 GMT [822<--846]
OPEN
Yes, we do have people who machine their own axles for the Hologram, but that's obviously rare.
Post #54 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Aug-2016 10:51:56 GMT [846<--853]
OPEN
Hi, does the UP frame accept suspension forks? if so, what is the travel compatibility?
Post #49 of 440. Posted by Carlos on 02-Aug-2016 19:59:28 GMT [0<--840]
OPEN
The UP frame is compatible with the Lauf Grit "gravel" suspension fork. Not with mountain bike suspension forks as those are much too long.
Post #51 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 03-Aug-2016 10:52:15 GMT [840<--842]
OPEN
I ordered an UP these days and I am considering to add Dura Ace configuration.
One question concerning the bottom bracket: Will the Rotor BB 4224 BB30 be fine, or do you have another recommendation?

Cheers, Andreas
Post #55 of 440. Posted by on 14-Aug-2016 12:44:10 GMT [0<--868]
OPEN
Hi Andreas, it all depends on the spacers you are going to use. The easiest is to get a dedicated BB set-up for Shimano cranks on BB386EVO, then you automatically have the right bearings AND spacers. Now, most of those bearings are the same on BB30 bottom brackets, but the cups are usually shorter (no big issue but not as nice) and you then need to figure out the shimming yourself (not ideal).
Post #56 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Aug-2016 00:02:27 GMT [868<--873]
OPEN
And for a SRAM force long spindle which BB would you advise ? Thks a lot.
Post #227 of 440. Posted by sylvain on 21-Feb-2017 08:37:54 GMT [868<--1480]
OPEN
Is the frame weight of 1150g inclusive of the forks?
Post #57 of 440. Posted by on 18-Aug-2016 08:25:33 GMT [0<--876]
OPEN
That's not including the fork.
Post #58 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 19-Aug-2016 10:01:22 GMT [876<--881]
OPEN
Hi,
is the front axle 15mm x 100mm or 15mm x 110mm??

Thanks
Post #59 of 440. Posted by on 20-Aug-2016 13:08:03 GMT [0<--894]
OPEN
For the U.P. it's 100x15mm. There isn't any BOOST for road/cross. That's on the mountainbike side, so for the ONE+ you could find BOOST forks that are 110x15. But to make it confusing, you can also fit a 100x15 fork on your ONE+ and plenty of 100x15 forks also fit 3" plus tires so there isn't that much reason to go to the 110mm width (in fact, even in the rear we went with Boost more for what it allows us to do with the crank than what it does with the hub).

Unless, to make it even more confusing, you're talking about the Lauf fork. That fork REALLY benefits from the 110mm width because of its design, so it gives you a 21% boost in lateral stiffness when going to the BOOST version. Just because of the geometric advantage. Hope that's clear.
Post #62 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 21-Aug-2016 17:46:12 GMT [894<--900]
OPEN
Gerard, doesn't the Lauf Grit fork only come in 100mm hub spacing? Maybe you were referring to the Trail Racer series as having a Boost version, but that model does not fit your U.P.?
Post #74 of 440. Posted by Pete on 02-Sep-2016 19:26:38 GMT [900<--941]
OPEN
The Grit only comes in 100mm, the Trail in 100 and 110 and it really benefits from the 110mm. I didn't say it fits in the UP, only that most front forks don't benefit that much from Boost but the Lauf does. Of course Boost is not really a topic for gravel/multi-surface bikes anyway, but the original question was about 100 vs. 110mm so hence the answer.
Post #76 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 03-Sep-2016 19:31:59 GMT [941<--943]
OPEN
What would putting on a Lauf Trail 100 w/60mm of travel do to the geometry/ride characteristics do to the UP?
Post #243 of 440. Posted by sam on 28-Feb-2017 11:42:20 GMT [943<--1523]
OPEN
It would completely screw it up. The Lauf Grit is the fork designed for the U.P. and U.P.P.E.R., the Lauf Trail (better go with the 110mm BOOST version) is perfect for the ONE+.
Post #245 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 28-Feb-2017 17:31:20 GMT [1523<--1530]
OPEN
Gerard
I want to buy some Carbon-Ti thru axles for my UP. Will the 15 mm front "road" axle work for the front and the 12 mm Syntace work for the rear?
Thank you. Mike Larsen
Post #349 of 440. Posted by Mike Larsen on 19-Jun-2017 19:31:53 GMT [894<--5901]
OPEN
Hi, what makes this frame heavier than the one+ ?
Post #60 of 440. Posted by on 21-Aug-2016 06:28:16 GMT [0<--897]
OPEN
Geometry (longer tubes, especially the seat tube) and load cases. This is often counter-intuitive to people, but a mountain bike has a lot of its peak impacts dulled by the tire size. An U.P. often has to withstand impacts while being run with a relatively small tire so it is not nearly as easy to make it as light. And then the orange paint is a little heavier than black too. Of course, the U.P. is also less expensive, especially when you take into account that it includes a fork and the ONE+ does not.
Post #63 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 21-Aug-2016 17:48:41 GMT [897<--901]
OPEN
Where are the two frames made?
Post #64 of 440. Posted by Robin on 31-Aug-2016 18:17:53 GMT [901<--930]
OPEN
Both of these frames are made in Asia.
Post #67 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Sep-2016 18:46:55 GMT [930<--933]
OPEN
Are you going to be represented at the U.K. Show in September ?
Post #73 of 440. Posted by Robin on 02-Sep-2016 03:48:11 GMT [933<--939]
OPEN
Which SRAM 2x10 mtb derailleur (for a double with small inner ring) will fit the 2-bolt frame mount?
Post #70 of 440. Posted by on 01-Sep-2016 20:26:10 GMT [0<--936]
OPEN
The U.P. doesn't have a 2-bolt frame mounted derailleur, the two bolts you see are to mount the derailleur mount, which is a standard road derailleur mount with a vertical slot. So it fits any road derailleur, SRAM, Shimano or Campy, but not an MTB front derailleur.
Post #71 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Sep-2016 20:49:05 GMT [936<--937]
OPEN
My goal is a 38/24 double up front. So a SRAM Red, Force, or Apex braze-on would work?

BTW thanks for the incredibly informative web site!
Post #72 of 440. Posted by Pete on 02-Sep-2016 00:25:57 GMT [937<--938]
OPEN
Nope, that won't work. You can't fit a 24t ring, the chain would touch on the bottom side of the chain stay. Why do you need a 24t small ring? What cassette are you planning to use?
Post #75 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 03-Sep-2016 19:29:27 GMT [938<--942]
OPEN
I'm in a mountainous area, so even the gravel roads can be hours of uphill, sometimes very steep. Thus I tend to lower gear ratios similar to MTB 29er. Cassette is 11-36, and do not wish to go 1x. Thanks!
Post #77 of 440. Posted by Pete on 04-Sep-2016 01:46:58 GMT [942<--944]
OPEN
Why not just get a compact road chainset with a 34 inner and maybe a 46 outer,bwith a 11/36 cassette you should be ok
Post #78 of 440. Posted by Robin on 04-Sep-2016 07:01:38 GMT [944<--945]
OPEN
I occasionally ride up "walls", very steep sections. My XC 29er bike has a 22t inner chainring x 36 in back.

So when you say a 24t inner chainring would touch the chainstay, would not that depend on the length of the derailleur cage? Would not a long-cage derailleur prevent that potential issue?

And if not in your opinion, then what would you say is the smallest possible inner chainring for this frame (asking as to double chainset, not 1x)?

You ask why I want to put a 40 or 38/24 double on this frame, I simply wish to have a very broad range of gearing that a 1x cannot offer.
Post #88 of 440. Posted by Pete on 07-Sep-2016 14:38:55 GMT [945<--955]
OPEN
Hi Pete, as you say, the derailleur and chain length has an effect, so it is impossible to answer that question exactly. But the 24t is so far off that it definitely won't work. The frame is designed for road cranks, where 34t is the smallest. Those always work (unless somebody sets up their bike completely wrong of course, but let's not assume that). Going a bit smaller is also possible, but I wouldn't be able to say where the exact limit is. Keep in mind that if you change the cassette to have a 42t as smallest cog, that 24x36 is the same as 28x42 so that's already a lot closer to the intended territory of chainring. If that works or not, I am really not sure.
Post #95 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 08-Sep-2016 12:36:48 GMT [955<--962]
OPEN
One last q on this if you know...at what cog on the cassette is this chain contact issue at its worst? On the smallest (outer) cog, big (inner) cog, or somewhere in the middle of the cassette?
Post #96 of 440. Posted by Pete on 10-Sep-2016 01:23:31 GMT [962<--963]
OPEN
It's so close to the chainring that the cog it's on doesn't really have a big effect.
Post #97 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 13-Sep-2016 08:59:52 GMT [963<--966]
OPEN
Hi Gerard,
I'm very interested in the U.P., but not sure, if size "S" is good for me, or too large. Actually I drive a womens Specialized Amira with top tube length 491, stack 504 and reach 365.
Thank you for your advice
Carola
Post #79 of 440. Posted by on 05-Sep-2016 05:53:39 GMT [0<--946]
OPEN
Hi Carola, thanks for the note, definitely the S will work well. A bit taller in the front but for a combined on-off-road position that is preferable for most people. And you probably don't ride in the lowest position possible now anyway, so with a taller front end you simply have fewer spacers.
Post #80 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Sep-2016 19:14:44 GMT [946<--947]
OPEN
Hi would you consider offering a frame without the top tube mounts? I really want this frame but those mounts spoil the beauty of it for me
Post #81 of 440. Posted by on 06-Sep-2016 15:36:43 GMT [0<--948]
OPEN
Those mounts are damn useful tho
Post #87 of 440. Posted by Robin on 07-Sep-2016 07:12:42 GMT [948<--954]
OPEN
In our photos, we show it will full allen bolts to make it clear they're there, but if you finish them with flat bolts it looks fine. We're not considering offering the frame without, that would not help our simplicity.
Post #89 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Sep-2016 17:37:54 GMT [948<--956]
OPEN
No plan to do that yet as we believe in the function of them. But if you use two round head flat screws then you can pimp your frame and make it look better
Post #159 of 440. Posted by Andy Kessler on 18-Oct-2016 07:08:47 GMT [948<--1068]
OPEN
What a great innovative geometry! Thanks for the information on this page - very insightful and definitely has me reconsidering my next bike. Out of curiosity, what handlebar is that featured on the U.P pictured here?
Post #82 of 440. Posted by on 06-Sep-2016 16:26:15 GMT [0<--949]
OPEN
The bar is a 3t Aeronova or Aerotundo
Post #83 of 440. Posted by Robin on 06-Sep-2016 19:06:45 GMT [949<--950]
OPEN
Aeronova.
Post #90 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Sep-2016 17:39:00 GMT [950<--957]
OPEN
Is there a rider weight limit for the frame? What is the total load rider+gear?
Post #84 of 440. Posted by on 06-Sep-2016 22:10:46 GMT [0<--951]
OPEN
Nope.
Post #91 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Sep-2016 17:39:17 GMT [951<--958]
OPEN
other colors available besides the orange?
Post #85 of 440. Posted by on 07-Sep-2016 02:25:28 GMT [0<--952]
OPEN
Say in the spec brown or orange
Post #86 of 440. Posted by Robin on 07-Sep-2016 03:42:47 GMT [952<--953]
OPEN
Thanks Robin!
Post #92 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Sep-2016 17:39:32 GMT [953<--959]
OPEN
??
Post #93 of 440. Posted by Robin on 08-Sep-2016 03:41:22 GMT [959<--960]
OPEN
Guess emojis don't work :)
Post #94 of 440. Posted by Robin on 08-Sep-2016 03:42:27 GMT [960<--961]
OPEN
Hi, I'm planning a u.p. build, which is kinda of bugging me at the moment as I wanted to mix shimano road and mtb components but because of the freehub body differences I don't think I can do what I want. Seems only SRAM offer a good solution.

Anyway seems best fit will x1 my question is, if I use a rotor 3D+ chainset with probably a 42 tooth ring the spec says flat rings are best, does this still apply to this chainset ? as I wanted to use a narrow wide ring.
Post #98 of 440. Posted by on 17-Sep-2016 14:21:50 GMT [0<--968]
OPEN
Yes, a flat narrow-wide ring is best. "Flat" as opposed to "offset", so it doesn't relate to the narrow-wide. It just means that it puts the single ring where normally the outer ring would go, not offset to be on top of the center of the spider tabs. Hope that makes sense.
Post #102 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 20-Sep-2016 12:15:11 GMT [968<--973]
OPEN
Yep that makes sense, just makes me think if I go for a double set up i'm not going to have a good chain line.
Post #105 of 440. Posted by Robin on 20-Sep-2016 14:52:19 GMT [973<--976]
OPEN
It's fine if you set it up for a double with normal rings. But if you set it up for a double you obviously can't use narrow-wide rings, they won't shift.
Post #107 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 20-Sep-2016 23:16:09 GMT [976<--978]
OPEN
Hi, I'm building up my U.P. and need some help on choosing the appropriate crank and ring for a 1x build. Who makes the recommended flat narrow-wide ring if I'm not supposed to use the SRAM Force 1x ring? Also, I have a SRAM Red 22 GXP crank and want to know if I can convert it to 1x use by simply changing the double chainring to a single 38T made for 1x. Also considering the Easton EC90SL 38T crankset. I presume that would work? Thanks
Post #357 of 440. Posted by Chris on 04-Jul-2017 19:59:56 GMT [978<--5911]
OPEN
For example Wolf Tooth components makes a ring that is flat and uses narrow-wide teeth. And yes, you can use the Red 22 crank, just mount the single flat ring on the OUTSIDE chainring position. And you'll need either shorter chainring bolts or washers to take up the slack from the missing inner ring.

EC90SL can work too.
Post #358 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Jul-2017 16:15:31 GMT [5911<--5912]
OPEN
Is the EC90SL considered a flat narrow/wide ring?
Post #360 of 440. Posted by Chris on 05-Jul-2017 16:23:55 GMT [5912<--5914]
OPEN
That's a bit beside the point. It's with the specific chainline that the SRAM crank has that a flat ring works better. But the EC90SL will have a different chainline to begin with, so who knows what ring works best. You want to get close to a 47mm chainline, so that's the distance from the center plane of the frame to the center plane of the ring.
Post #361 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Jul-2017 16:28:56 GMT [5914<--5915]
OPEN
So is the stock SRAM 1X ring flat? Or are you saying that it should ideally be replaced by the Wolf ring? This is all new to me so please forgive the rudimentary question. I was going to buy the complete EC90SL with the 38T ring. Do you know if that works with the UP?
Post #362 of 440. Posted by Chris Grigsby on 05-Jul-2017 16:32:53 GMT [5915<--5916]
OPEN
The stock SRAM ring is offset. So they put it on the “outer” position, and then the offset puts the teeth roughly in-between where normally the inner and outer ring are. This seems logical, that’s the chainline, but in going with thru axles, the position of the cassette in the rear has changed. The cassette has moved outward, so we want to move the whole chain outward and that makes this offset counterproductive.

But to be clear, this is all relative, the bike works fine with offset rings and flat rings, in fact one could argue there isn’t one ideal chainline dimension, that it depends on the rider and your style and average gear, etc. So any ring and offset will work, don’t worry about that. if you want to get the final % right, then this matters.

The EC90SL has a 45mm chainline, so a bit in-between 43.5 and 47mm. So it will work fine with the stock chainring on the UP.
Post #363 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Jul-2017 16:38:14 GMT [5916<--5917]
OPEN
Hi, I installed my Dura Ace DI2 shifters this weekend. I did not care about the cable guide in the bottom bracket area much. Now, that everything is fixed, I realized, that the cable guide is more or less loose: Is there any way to fix it without deinstalling the cranks once more?
thanks, Andreas
Post #99 of 440. Posted by on 18-Sep-2016 14:52:30 GMT [0<--969]
OPEN
Hi Andreas, why is it loose? No cable tension?
Post #100 of 440. Posted by Robin on 19-Sep-2016 03:49:37 GMT [969<--970]
OPEN
I actually did not use the cable guide, as with DI2 electric cable that is not really needed...
Post #101 of 440. Posted by Andreas on 19-Sep-2016 04:05:58 GMT [970<--971]
OPEN
You can put an O-ring around the inside of the cable guide to fit it snuggly when you use Di2. You might be able to press it in from the outside depending on the O-ring, but definitely easier to pop it over from the inside.
Post #103 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 20-Sep-2016 12:16:22 GMT [969<--974]
OPEN
Any suggestions on where to hide a di2 battery internally in the frame other than in the seatpost?
Post #104 of 440. Posted by on 20-Sep-2016 12:44:12 GMT [0<--975]
OPEN
On my own U.P., the rather low-tech but very efficient solution is to wrap it in bubble wrap and stuff it at the bottom of the seat tube. Works perfectly.
Post #106 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 20-Sep-2016 23:15:18 GMT [975<--977]
OPEN
Will you be adopting the new flat mount standard any time soon?
Post #108 of 440. Posted by on 21-Sep-2016 05:20:10 GMT [0<--979]
OPEN
That's a tricky question, it really depends on the final decisions of the component makers. Some say they might make some brakes only in flat mount, we already know some only come in post mount (XTR for example, which I have installed on my UP), so we just need to see where it goes. However, for 90% of the builds it won't really make a difference as most brakes come in both versions.
Post #109 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 21-Sep-2016 11:33:31 GMT [979<--980]
OPEN
Many thanks Gerard
Post #112 of 440. Posted by Tim on 22-Sep-2016 06:19:39 GMT [980<--983]
OPEN
Love the concept and bike design - I am however disappointed in your size range, being 6' 6" - I currently ride a cross bike with a 614 mm ETT and ~430 mm of reach and run a 130 mm stem and a setback seatpost (which you believe is unnecessary) so I have a hard time believing that I will fit on a XL in your size range with ~30 mm less TT and reach and no setback.
Post #110 of 440. Posted by on 21-Sep-2016 21:19:00 GMT [0<--981]
OPEN
If your current frame has a 430mm reach, then the U.P. won't fit. In combination with a 130mm stem that would be an enormous cockpit length and you'd be the first 6'6 rider who wouldn't fit, but I'll take your word for it. BTW, it's not that we believe setback seat posts are unnecessary, they are usually unnecessary with our frame design. They are usually required on most other frame designs (and sometimes on ours).
Post #115 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 22-Sep-2016 14:56:56 GMT [981<--986]
OPEN
I agree, I would like to see one size larger than you currently offer and I am only just shy of 6'5". Your XL is smaller in both stack and reach than my 61cm S-brand Tarmac I want to replace, which I barely fit with 180mm cranks, a ton of exposed 400mm post, and a 120mm stem sitting on 25mm of spacers. It fits well, but just barely.

If you offered one size up I'm a customer. You could do it only for the U.P. especially if it is stronger at it's slightly heavier weight.

Love the bike - classy, versatile, modern.
Post #293 of 440. Posted by EB on 13-Apr-2017 21:37:41 GMT [986<--3786]
OPEN
Hi EB, thanks for the input and consideration, although I'd see it slightly differently. On the XL, a 130mm stem is not out of place (I ride a 130mm stem on the size L, I'm 6'3). And then the reach is the same as on your Tarmac. I know that big bike companies don't spec longer stems (except of course almost every pro they sponsor rides with a 130 or 140 stem) but with the right geometry it makes sense. And the stack of the Tarmac is 3mm taller than the UP in XL, a difference that is negligible (and the longer stem also increases the handlebar stack so that difference completely disappears.

If we'd make an XXL (which I don't think we'll ever do), it still wouldn't help you. Because I would still maintain you're perfectly fit for the XL, and the XXL would be for people who are 6'7.
Post #294 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 13-Apr-2017 22:00:35 GMT [3786<--3787]
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Hmmm, I'm 6"3 but more legs than torso and at 59 feel most comfortable with only 6-8 cm drop to handlebars from an 84.25 cm seat height (measured from ctr of bb to top of saddle on a diagonal line). Hard to see how I get to the right bar height on an XL without a stackload of spacers and a very upright stem, but maybe my reckoning is thrown off by something. But for this concern, your design looks amazing.
Post #297 of 440. Posted by Greg on 24-Apr-2017 01:41:55 GMT [3787<--3812]
OPEN
Hi Greg, just send me a note via the link on the right about what you currently ride on gravel,cross or road (bike brand/model/model year/size and I will take a look for you. If it works, great, if not, I'll tell you too.
Post #298 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 24-Apr-2017 08:55:52 GMT [3812<--3813]
OPEN
Thank you. Information has been sent
Post #299 of 440. Posted by Greg on 24-Apr-2017 10:33:59 GMT [3813<--3814]
OPEN
Hallo Gerard,

Ik vraag me af of de U.P. ook geschikt is voor strandraces? Fiets ziet er prachtig uit. Ik wil een strandfiets kopen die ik ook op de weg gebruik in de winter (tijdens slecht weer) i.p.v. mijn racefiets. Deze fiets zou alles samen brengen.
Post #113 of 440. Posted by on 22-Sep-2016 09:56:45 GMT [0<--984]
OPEN
Natuurlijk, en dat gebeurt ook steeds meer nu er meer en meer banden in 650b beschikbaar komen die ook voor het strand geschikt zijn. Met als voordeel dat je dus op de weg gewoon 700c banden kunt gebruiken zonder dat het stuurgedrag van de fiets verandert. Dat is een voordeel over fietsen die 700c strandbanden gemonteerd hebben, waar de fiets toch heel anders stuurt dan je van de weg misschien gewend bent.
Post #114 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 22-Sep-2016 14:53:13 GMT [984<--985]
OPEN
Just picked mine up pre-built with a Sram Force Cx-1 32-11 cassette (Q-rings single chain ring on front). Finding it too much for the steep climbs where I live. What is biggest ring cassette that could be fitted to the U.P? I am willing to change rear mech or anything else to get the widest gear range/biggest climbing ring possible...Thanks!
Post #116 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 25-Sep-2016 17:13:42 GMT [0<--990]
OPEN
The Q-ring is the single ring QX1 44t model 110 BCD. Rotor 3Df cranks. Don't know what the BB is yet. Combined with the 32-11 cassette it's murder climbing the mountains in my area!
Perhaps a 48/32t double ring crankset combined with a 36-11 cassette at the back might be an ideal solution?
Does anyone know where to source a good quality 48/32t crankset to fit the BB386 EVO? Or if not, maybe a 46/30t?
Post #119 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 26-Sep-2016 10:08:50 GMT [990<--994]
OPEN
Have you looked at the stuff from Sugino?
Post #120 of 440. Posted by bryan on 26-Sep-2016 11:38:32 GMT [994<--995]
OPEN
Thanks, yes but only Shimano compatibility.? Possibly SRAM but 10 speed only?? Also very poor availability outside of Japan..
Post #121 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 26-Sep-2016 15:25:32 GMT [995<--996]
OPEN
Seems FSA are listing this: SL-K MODULAR ADVENTURE BB386EVO here http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/cranksets-road/sl-k-light-adventure-modular-bb386evo/
...BUT,
can't find it anywhere for sale..!!
Post #122 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 26-Sep-2016 15:33:17 GMT [996<--997]
OPEN
Correct URL !:

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/cranksets-road/sl-k-light-adventure-modular-bb386evo/
Post #123 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 26-Sep-2016 15:34:22 GMT [997<--998]
OPEN
Sorry folks, don't understand why and can't seem to edit my previous posts, but for some reason this site is adding this: , to the end of the correct URL copied above.! The correct URL ends with :-
bb386evo/
Post #124 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 26-Sep-2016 15:37:55 GMT [998<--999]
OPEN
Smallest 110bcd ring you can get is 33tooth TA make that, otherwise 34 is gonna be the smallest try that with a 11/36 cassette or get a sram 10/42 cassette with maybe 40tooth single ring up front
Post #125 of 440. Posted by Robin on 26-Sep-2016 16:00:00 GMT [994<--1000]
OPEN
Thanks! Willing to ditch the Q-ring/110 bcd to get the 46/30 or 48/32 up front though I reckon.....if I can find them that is!
Post #126 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 26-Sep-2016 16:10:42 GMT [1000<--1001]
OPEN
So I finally called the FSA distributor in UK to ask for info on availability and was told they will not be available until next year. They were unable to say when next year!

Anyone else got any sources for the so-called '"gravel"-targeted cranksets available with 46/30, 48/32, etc combinations' ?
Post #127 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 27-Sep-2016 14:10:30 GMT [1001<--1002]
OPEN
OK, how about staying 1x at front then, but fitting a 11-42 cassette at back instead? Possible with a long arm rear mech? What else would be required to do this?
Post #128 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 28-Sep-2016 04:42:28 GMT [1002<--1003]
OPEN
Yep sram clutch long cage mech, with a narrow wide front chain ring, have a look on the sram website
Post #129 of 440. Posted by Robin on 28-Sep-2016 13:05:36 GMT [1003<--1004]
OPEN
Thanks Robin! Yes, I've been on sram's site for a day it seems! Here's a question for you/Gerard/anyone else: can the SRAM mtb rear derailleurs be fitted to the U.P. to run the newest 12 speed SRAM cassettes?
If not, is there anything to stop you running the SRAM XG-1199 X-DOME 11 speed Cassette along with the XD Driver Body and SRAM Force 1 Long Cage Rear Derailleur for a tidy 10-42t 11 speed setup?
Post #130 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 28-Sep-2016 18:36:40 GMT [1004<--1005]
OPEN
Hi Marshall, sorry for the delay, I was traveling for our fully project. There are a few things you can do:
1) Change your 44t ring to a 34t ring. That's what I have on my bike and obviously that makes a big difference, it reduces your gearing by 23%. Of course your small gear also reduces a bit but at that end, you may not miss it that much (I don't). You CANNOT change to a 33t ring as some suggested, since it's a single ring you need narrow-wide teeth to keep the chain on (or an ugly chain guide but I wouldn't do that) and narrow-wide per definition only comes in even tooth numbers (otherwise you'd have two narrows or two wides at some point).
2) Change the cassette to 11-36 (requires a long-cage Force 1 derailleur which you may or may not have already?).
3) Change the cassette body on your wheels to an xD driver (most hubs can do this easily) and then you can mount a SRAM 10-42 cassette (also requires the long cage derailleur). With that xD driver, you can even fit a 9-44 cassette from e13, Benefit of these cassettes is not only the bigger small gear, but also the smaller small gear so it would give you more top-end when running the 34t front ring (9-18% bigger gear).

Hope that helps, Gerard.
Post #131 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 28-Sep-2016 19:44:44 GMT [1005<--1007]
OPEN
Hi Gerard, many thanks for your very comprehensive reply (it was worth waiting for!).
Well this all sounds most promising, especially the xd driver option married to the e13 9-44 cassette plus the small ring at the front. This is a combination I wasn't even aware of, and it absolutely enhances the range of gearing available at each limit as you say, which was exactly my concern. So the only thing I can think I am still unsure of now is will the long cage Force 1 derailleur work with the extended range 44 cog and 9 cog at each limit? Thanks again so much for your time and help :)
Post #132 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 28-Sep-2016 21:17:43 GMT [1007<--1008]
OPEN
Yes, the e13 9-44 cassette will work with either the long range Force 1 derailleur or for Shimano lovers, with an XTR Di2 derailleur in combination with road shift/brake/levers.
Post #136 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Oct-2016 22:00:35 GMT [1008<--1013]
OPEN
Hey Gerard, just wanted to check back in to update on my U.P. After following your advice, I fitted the new e13 9-44 cassette plus the new long cage Force 1 and XD driver for the Zipp wheel/hub. Boom! Thanks to you I'm now running a Beast of a bike! So glad I followed this route and stayed with the single 44t Q-ring at the front. So clean and simple - exactly the point of this bike for me. And the range of gearing is simply awesome. All I can imagine ever needing. Thank you so much!
Post #164 of 440. Posted by Marshall on 24-Oct-2016 19:19:11 GMT [1013<--1107]
OPEN
Hi Marshall, glad you like it! roll on.
Post #168 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Oct-2016 17:22:33 GMT [1107<--1118]
OPEN
BTW, if you haven't added your bike to the SHOWCASE yet at the top of the screen, I would really appreciate it if you would as that build is pretty interesting also for others to see.
Post #169 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Oct-2016 17:24:30 GMT [1107<--1119]
OPEN
I suggested the the 33 tooth as part of a double set up. Also 11/36 cassette is ok with medium cage CX1 mech
Post #133 of 440. Posted by Robin on 29-Sep-2016 14:45:18 GMT [1007<--1010]
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Yes, not meant as a criticism, I wasn't sure what you meant but I just wanted to make sure people didn't take away the wrong idea from that. For sure you can fit a 33t as an inner ring on a double setup.
Post #137 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Oct-2016 22:01:33 GMT [1010<--1014]
OPEN
The rethought geometry is interesting. Regarding seat tube angle, for those of us who already use zero-offset posts for proper fore/aft saddle position relative to the BB, I am wondering if there will be fit issues. For example, my road bike (size 54) has conventional 73.5 deg seat tube angle and my saddle is positioned fairly far forward with zero-offset post. [I had a professional bike fitting.] A 72.5 degree seat tube would be about 10mm further back, I believe.
Post #134 of 440. Posted by David on 01-Oct-2016 20:14:19 GMT [0<--1011]
OPEN
It's rarely an issue but of course, in the case people are already on the extreme, it would be. But of course the same is true on the other end, this bike does allow for an offset post so if somebody sits really far back, this accommodates that. But to be honest, both of those situations are very, very rare, saddle position doesn't vary that much in comparison to the adjustment that exists on most rails. Also, it depends a lot on the seatpost design. It's actually not about the offset that people normally measure (the center of the clamp), that's irrelevant. What matters is where the rear of the clamp is, so a narrow clamp gives you a lot of space to move forward on the rails.
Post #135 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Oct-2016 21:58:06 GMT [1011<--1012]
OPEN
Just recently purchased a medium Open U.P. One reason I picked this bike is its versatility and ability to handle 40MM tires. However, when I picked it up from the LBS, they put 36MM tires on it saying the 40MM tires were too close to the seat stay and they were concerned with rubbing on seat stay. From pictures on the website it looks like 40MM will fit, albeit close to the seat stay. Any problems putting 40MM tires on a medium frame?
Post #139 of 440. Posted by james on 02-Oct-2016 16:12:33 GMT [0<--1016]
OPEN
Well, most tires aren't the size they say on the label, and rim width also has an effect, so it's hard to make general statements, but I've never seen a 40mm tire that gets anywhere near to the seat stays. I mean, you can see it on your own bike, the gape between the 36 mm tire and the seat stays will be WAY more than the 2mm that a 40 mm tire would add.
Post #140 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 03-Oct-2016 19:07:38 GMT [1016<--1017]
OPEN
Hi
I read a cane creek headset is included, which model is it and does it include an expander?

Regards
Post #141 of 440. Posted by Robin on 04-Oct-2016 09:29:47 GMT [0<--1018]
OPEN
The headset is the stainless steel version, the expander that you need is fork specific and included with the fork, not the headset (that one you can toss out).
Post #142 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Oct-2016 19:31:46 GMT [1018<--1019]
OPEN
Thanks !
Post #143 of 440. Posted by Robin on 06-Oct-2016 03:45:19 GMT [1019<--1020]
OPEN
Gerard's response on this seems a bit deceptive and inaccurate to me. The specs don't specifically state which headset and I knew I'd seen reference to stainless version somewhere. The headset included on a new (September 2017) Upper does have a Cane Creek 110 top assembly with stainless bearing, but the bottom bearing....the really critical one...is a 40 series bearing and not 110 stainless. Since frame/fork is 45 x 45 the Cane Creek stainless 52 110 bearing (36 x 45) doesn't work, so I understand why the 40 series is included. But, it's NOT stainless and being on the bottom is the place where stainless really helps, especially on this type bike (water expected). Wish Open was a bit more "open" and honest in how this is portrayed.
Post #427 of 440. Posted by Thomas on 21-Sep-2017 15:50:59 GMT [1019<--7077]
OPEN
Deceptive? Because my answer about the UP headset from a year ago doesn't match what you get today on your UPPER, a model that didn't even EXIST when I wrote my response? The UPPER has a different frame, a different fork (with an integrated fork race), etc, so of course the response I gave about the UP headset does not apply to the UPPER headset. And yet you call me deceptive and dishonest?

By the way, for any spec question it makes more sense to check the spec list or ask the question than to rely on a year-old comment. The UP headset is also not identical to the one from a year ago (nor to the UPPER headset).
Post #428 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 21-Sep-2017 19:35:23 GMT [7077<--7078]
OPEN
Hi dear, sameone in Italy sell this bike?

best regards
Andrea
Post #144 of 440. Posted by Andrea on 07-Oct-2016 17:34:21 GMT [0<--1021]
OPEN
Hi Andrea, Check the dealers section at top of page.
Post #145 of 440. Posted by Robin on 08-Oct-2016 10:45:01 GMT [1021<--1023]
OPEN
Yes I saw that there is none in Italy :( this is no good!!!! How can I buy it?
Post #148 of 440. Posted by Andrea on 11-Oct-2016 05:58:41 GMT [1023<--1027]
OPEN
Contact Andy via the web page contact on the left
Post #150 of 440. Posted by Robin on 11-Oct-2016 10:48:32 GMT [1027<--1029]
OPEN
Hi Guys,

love the bike, but could you not have hidden the cable to front brake in the fork ? Rather than the less elegant looking attached to the fork.

Best

Dylan
Post #149 of 440. Posted by Dylan Amlot on 11-Oct-2016 08:03:12 GMT [0<--1028]
OPEN
The fork is a 3t fork, I would think future versions of the fork would be internal routing
Post #151 of 440. Posted by Robin on 11-Oct-2016 10:50:10 GMT [1028<--1030]
OPEN
Certainly agree!
And that´s not merely an esthetic issue: The front brake cable, and even more the uppermost fixation ring, decrease the tire clearance; thereby significantly limiting the maximum possible width of the front tire.
One of very few imperfections on this excellent bike.
Post #248 of 440. Posted by Bengan on 02-Mar-2017 12:00:07 GMT [1028<--1546]
OPEN
Hi,

I recently got an orange U.P. and it's great. Unfortunately, on two of the first rides I took it on, the chain dropped off the chainring when changing up and the chain ended up crunching the underside of the bottom bracket. It's only superficial--the orange coat is scored or flaked off, but it looks bad.

I'd like to touch up the damaged areas with the matching orange colour. Do you sell anything for that, or can you recommend where I could get something?

Thanks!
Post #152 of 440. Posted by Roger Leigh on 13-Oct-2016 11:14:49 GMT [0<--1041]
OPEN
Hi Roger, the best matching can usually be found with touch up paint for car bodies. They have a lot of choice and you can match visually. Since every batch of orange for the frames can slightly differ and the paint also changes a bit over time, that's the best way to closely match. Hope that helps, Gerard.
Post #153 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 13-Oct-2016 12:44:44 GMT [1041<--1042]
OPEN
Is it possible to buy the U.P. frameset unpainted? (I love the bike but orange and brown just aren't working for me) - would love to have it custom painted in a colour of my choice and having a 'bare' frame makes that process a bit cheaper.
Post #154 of 440. Posted by Frank on 14-Oct-2016 18:07:50 GMT [0<--1049]
OPEN
We do some unpainted batches from time to time but they usually sell out before we even have them in the warehouse. Best to email Andy (Contact tab on the left of this page).
Post #155 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 14-Oct-2016 22:17:53 GMT [1049<--1051]
OPEN
Hello,

My dealer informed me that the unpainted frames will become available soon. Is there any sort of finish on these frames and can I ride them without painting on my own?
Post #165 of 440. Posted by goshan on 25-Oct-2016 18:17:14 GMT [1051<--1112]
OPEN
Looks like most Open UPs are built with 140mm brake rotors. Is there sufficient space in the frame to install an adapter on the brakes to use 160mm rotors? If so, it looks like both the front and rear brake mounts are post mount so a "Disc Brake Adapter Post to Post +20mm" would be required?
Post #156 of 440. Posted by gravel rider on 17-Oct-2016 00:21:51 GMT [0<--1058]
OPEN
No adapters needed, frame and fork fits 160mm rotors out the box.
Post #157 of 440. Posted by Robin on 17-Oct-2016 12:10:59 GMT [1058<--1059]
OPEN
As Robin says, stock spacing is for 160mm rotors.
Post #158 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Oct-2016 20:32:50 GMT [1058<--1062]
OPEN
Has anyone put a dropper post on this? I was thinking of the KS LEV-272 and wondered if there is provision for cable routing. Some of the fire roads out here in Southern California are pretty steep and loose, and this would make things less "interesting".
Post #160 of 440. Posted by Michael on 19-Oct-2016 18:09:41 GMT [0<--1071]
OPEN
Hi Michael, yes, I have. See here: https://opencyc...art-2
Post #161 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 20-Oct-2016 10:34:20 GMT [1071<--1074]
OPEN
Is there a weight restriction on the frame?
Post #162 of 440. Posted by Elgar Vaivars on 23-Oct-2016 16:10:01 GMT [0<--1102]
OPEN
Hi Elgar, no there is not. All our frames are designed without a limit
Post #163 of 440. Posted by Andy Kessler on 24-Oct-2016 11:29:38 GMT [0<--1105]
OPEN
Anyone got any tips on setting up sram 1x?

I have never set up sram 1x but I have set up sram 2x plenty of times. i.e. chain off, cable not attached, set the limits, put on chain attach cable, voila it works perfect very rarely have to adjust the cable tension.

sarm 1x is a bit different ie. chain on and cable attached then adjust, I have followed the sram instructions also watched https://www.you...LLI7c

I have to add quite a bit of cable tension to get the derailleur to directly line up under the 42t sprocket is this normal?

I have almost got it perfect but sometimes moving to the larger (more teeth) sprockets the derailleur is not quite far enough over, if I shift to the next largest and back down it's then ok. I have tried adding a bit more tension but the same thing happens again. I might just be crap at setting it up, but I have never had problems with 2x. I feel the cable maybe is pinched slightly, I have pulled the bike apart 3 times now trying to sort this, any input greatly appreciated.
Post #166 of 440. Posted by Robin on 27-Oct-2016 06:46:28 GMT [0<--1113]
OPEN
Hi Robin, there is more chain tension on the 1x derailleur so in combination with the bigger cog than you're used to on 2x, this will mean you'll also find a bit more force is needed to shift it onto the biggest cog. I wouldn't expect any pinched cable, hard to see where that could happen for your rear derailleur. But it's equally hard to really set up a derailleur via the internet, I can't really see or feel what is going on.
Post #167 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Oct-2016 17:02:54 GMT [1113<--1114]
OPEN
Thanks for the input
Post #170 of 440. Posted by Robin on 27-Oct-2016 17:49:16 GMT [1114<--1120]
OPEN
Any color will be available? All black like Rapha edition ( without rapha logo would be awesome! Love the bike not much the color range. Thanks!
Post #171 of 440. Posted by Ivan on 01-Nov-2016 12:04:50 GMT [0<--1133]
OPEN
Hi Ivan, we don't change colors that often, however we do have some more RTP (ready to paint) frames coming soon that you could have custom-painted any way you like.
Post #172 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 01-Nov-2016 19:32:09 GMT [1133<--1139]
OPEN
Do you have any images of the RTP frames, our LBS ( not that local ) has some, but don't have images.
Post #173 of 440. Posted by Dylan on 02-Nov-2016 09:05:39 GMT [1139<--1145]
OPEN
Hi Dylan, there's nothing to see there really, they're ready to paint so they're raw carbon (and no, you can't really leave the frame like that).
Post #174 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 02-Nov-2016 10:09:18 GMT [1145<--1147]
OPEN
The guys over at ETOE (http://www.etoe...cle/) have 7 different custom paint options including 2 different black options - just received mine (in 'magic black' as i wanted to keep the 4 colour OPEN 'logo' on the head tube to break up the all-black look) and it's awesome. Best of all the price is the same as purchasing the normal orange or brown version. They are located in Germany but the shipping here to France was really reasonable (approx EUR30) and they had it to me within 10 days.
Post #189 of 440. Posted by thechesh on 22-Nov-2016 07:05:51 GMT [1147<--1228]
OPEN
WHAT ABOUT WARRANTY? THANKS
Post #179 of 440. Posted by IVAN on 06-Nov-2016 17:22:58 GMT [1139<--1164]
OPEN
https://opencyc...ranty
Post #185 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 09-Nov-2016 06:52:50 GMT [1164<--1174]
OPEN
Hi Gerard/Andy, I am in the process of building an Open UP and I am still trying to decide which size wheel to go with initially. Since the 700c is more versatile (allowing road, cross and gravel tires) I am leaning in this direction. I am a little bit puzzled though as when I looked at some of the pictures you have on the website, I saw that the Open UP in the brown color has Hed Ardennes + wheels on it and run some 27.5 x 2.25 Canis tires. I could not find any Hed Ardennes + wheels in a 27.5/650b size on internet. Does that mean that it is possible to run 27.5 MTB tyres (Onza Canis) on a 700c Hed Ardennes + wheel set? Or are the Hed Ardennes + wheels in the picture custom wheels in a 27.5 size? Thanks in advance for your help with that. Regards. Pierre
Post #175 of 440. Posted by Pierre Rehlinger on 03-Nov-2016 06:53:13 GMT [0<--1155]
OPEN
Hi Pierre, the 650b HED Ardennes are custom (that brown bike was a HED limited edition frame). If you call HED (or have your local bike shop call them), I am sure they can make you a set.

With regards to road and 650b, there are more and more tires for that purpose available too. Of course you need to stick with pretty wide tires in that case, otherwise the overall wheel becomes too small, but a 47mm WTB Horizon or any number of other (semi-)slick road tires in 650b that are wide will roll really nicely on the UP, and at the same time give you good volume off-road (so you may not need knobs all the tire and won't need to switch tires that often, if at all - depending on where you live of course)
Post #178 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Nov-2016 03:04:46 GMT [1155<--1158]
OPEN
Hi Gerard/Andy,
I just ordered an U.P. and am super excited to ride it everywhere. I know the bike naturally is meant to be out and about and not confined to a trainer but is it possible to mount it up to a trainer (i.e. kurt kinetic). There are just times when I'm going to be stuck in the garage when the little one is sleeping and I can't get out. I'm not exactly sure how the 12mm thru axle works back there as I have not seen how it works yet. Please let me know. Thank you so much.
Post #176 of 440. Posted by Noby on 04-Nov-2016 18:51:50 GMT [0<--1156]
OPEN
Hi Noby, both Andy and I prefer riding is really bad weather over riding on a trainer, so we're not sure either how to hook it up. But I'm sure it can be done, there are enough bikes with thru axles out there that the trainer makers must have created a way to connect them. So best check with them directly.
Post #177 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Nov-2016 03:01:33 GMT [1156<--1157]
OPEN
Hello!
I'm currently riding a road bike with 53/39 with 11/25 and I would like to have an OPEN UP, SRAM 1x that covers about the same range but with on single front ring...
I made some calculation... and I thought that if I take a front ring: 52T and a cassette 10T-42T it could covers my range what I have now on my road bike...
Do you think it's possible to fix this on a OPEN UP?
Thank you for your advice!

Marc
Post #180 of 440. Posted by marc Egger on 08-Nov-2016 15:59:10 GMT [0<--1166]
OPEN
Hi Marc, 53x11 as biggest gear is basically 48x10. So you'd need a 48t front ring, not a 52 (52x10 is a crazy gear that no pro can even turn in a time trial, so you don't need it. In fact I would argue that people who buy bikes (as opposed to being sponsored) don't need 53x11 either, neither on the flats nor on the descents will they go as fast as Sagan or Froome, so why do they need their biggest gear? Not meant as a criticism, but as something to think about. If you can say "hey, I'm rarely in my biggest gear so why not use 53x12 as my biggest or even 53x13", then the steps between gears in your 1x setup become a lot nicer.

Anyway, sticking with 53x11 and thus 48x10, that means that 48x?? should match your smallest gear of 39x25. That means your smallest gear only needs to be a 30t ring. Or in other words, the 10-42 gives you another 40% smaller gear than you really need, so a huge range. So yes, you can get your current range and then some (which will really come in handy off-road so really not a bad thing to have).

However, if you don't really need/want the extra small gears, what I would suggest is to run a 50t front ring and accept a 5% smaller biggest gear than Sagan and Froome and then run an 11-32 cassette. That way, your smallest gear is the same as your current 39x25, your biggest gear is almost what it is now, and you have 11 nice gears that are spaced closely together. And by picking the long cage SRAM derailleur, you can still toss in an 11-36 or 10-42 later if you want to (check for exact details on how to get all that to work with your shop).

Hope this helps.
Post #181 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 09-Nov-2016 03:00:52 GMT [1166<--1167]
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Thank you very much Gerard for your very useful answer! I will definitely think about but a 50t with a 11-32 looks nice! For long journey, gravel and road, uphills & downhills with some "light bikepacking" must be perfect, no?
;-) loooooooking forwards!!
Post #186 of 440. Posted by marc on 13-Nov-2016 15:54:17 GMT [1167<--1177]
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Do you have any UK dealers where I could arrange a test ride on an U.P?
Post #182 of 440. Posted by Phil on 09-Nov-2016 06:33:25 GMT [0<--1169]
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Hi Phil, we have quite select distribution (all we can handle being a 2 man company) so there are just a handful of dealers in the UK. you can find them listed via the link in the top right of this page. Most will have demo bikes in certain sizes (often the owner's or employees' bikes) so best to call them and check for specific sizes and availability.
Post #183 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 09-Nov-2016 06:47:13 GMT [1169<--1170]
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Thanks Gerard
Post #184 of 440. Posted by Phil on 09-Nov-2016 06:48:28 GMT [1170<--1171]
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What is the widest 700c tires i can run on the UP? Thinking of the Compass Snoqualmie Pass (44mm) on DT Swiss 29er rims. Saw Compass post a picture of someone running a similar setup on Instagram, looked like the rear tire was REALLY close to the seat post.
Post #187 of 440. Posted by John on 20-Nov-2016 03:12:27 GMT [0<--1212]
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Haven't tried the Compass, it all depends on the "real" dimensions of the tire. Maybe somebody else here has tried that one. If you have a chance to test, let me know how it goes.
Post #188 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 20-Nov-2016 16:12:17 GMT [1212<--1220]
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Anyone ever try putting the silca impero ultimate frame pump on the U.P? Curious whether it'll fit, and how it'd look....=)
Post #190 of 440. Posted by bryan on 28-Nov-2016 01:28:28 GMT [0<--1239]
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Yes, I rode Almanzo together with Andy Ording (formerly the owner of Zipp, and his chief engineer there went on to re-start Silca) and he had the Silca frame pump on his bike. Works perfectly.
Post #191 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 29-Nov-2016 04:10:12 GMT [1239<--1240]
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What is the best 2.1 tire that you all recommend? I am trying to find the largest tire suitable for single track that will fit on my UP for 650b.
Post #192 of 440. Posted by Mike on 06-Dec-2016 13:49:37 GMT [0<--1252]
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I am not sure if there is "the best" out there, but we like the 2.1 Schwalbe Racing Ralph. It also depends on the rim you use, as the wider the rim, the wider the effective width of the tire.
Post #195 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 09-Dec-2016 10:27:31 GMT [1252<--1255]
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I watched your interview with Canadian cycling magazine on YouTube. In the video you made the comment you do not like the seat tube collar. I have a idea on how to replace it with a better looking alternative.
Post #193 of 440. Posted by Jeffrey Stanley on 09-Dec-2016 10:02:35 GMT [0<--1253]
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It's not really the specific collar I meant, I dislike them in general the way I like front derailleurs. There's no elegance, it's a crude solution to a problem. But I don't like integrated seat masts either so that's no solution for me!
Post #194 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 09-Dec-2016 10:26:33 GMT [1253<--1254]
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lower Michigan, looking for dealer who may be adding Open UP?
Post #196 of 440. Posted by Jon Wedemeyer on 17-Dec-2016 08:48:36 GMT [0<--1268]
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Hi Jon, we try not to have too many dealers (there are only so many hours in Andy's day to support them) but feel free to contact him via the contact form on the left of each page to check with him.
Post #199 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 24-Dec-2016 15:07:18 GMT [1268<--1271]
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but the price of 2900 € refers to the complete bike?
Post #197 of 440. Posted by davide on 17-Dec-2016 16:19:36 GMT [0<--1269]
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We don't sell complete bikes, just framesets (see "included in box" for exactly what is included in the package).
Post #198 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 24-Dec-2016 15:05:37 GMT [1269<--1270]
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Can you ballpark the cost for a build, though? (E. g. equipped with SRAM Force 1 accouterments, rigid fork and suitably nice 650b wheels.) The closest retailer in Japan (which is where I live) just sells the frame and doesn't give any guidance either.
Post #201 of 440. Posted by Max on 02-Jan-2017 00:52:06 GMT [1270<--1295]
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Sure, complete bike with SRAM Force 1 with good cockpit parts and nice 650b alloy wheels would be ballpark USD 5500.
Post #202 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 04-Jan-2017 19:44:43 GMT [1295<--1298]
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Happy new year.
Thank you for creating such a great bike, which is lust worthy for all the good reasons. However, I would love to have different color (not a deal breaker) and more importantly, flat mount brakes. I hope these are in the pipeline.
Post #200 of 440. Posted by George on 01-Jan-2017 12:39:03 GMT [0<--1293]
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Hi George, every month we have a small number of Ready-To-Paint (RTP) frames available, so you can have them painted in any color you'd like. So indeed, no deal breaker. As for flat mount, time will tell where that goes.
Post #203 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 04-Jan-2017 19:45:49 GMT [1293<--1299]
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Hi,
i write in german, that's easy for me. If it's not ok, i can translate.
Ich finde euer Rad / Rahmen up sehr interessant. Würde diesen gerne mit 27,5 Laufrädern und Compact Kurbeln 50 / 34 aufbauen. Gibt es schon mal Probleme mit sog. chain suck?
Nicht sicher bin ich mir bei der Rahmenhöhe M oder S?
Ich bin 52 Jahre alt, 172 cm gross, Beinlänge 81 cm. Als Stassenrad fahre ich Specialized Tarmac 54 cm. Könnte ein bischen groß sein. Jedoch ist das Sattelrohr ist 51 cm lang, also 3 cm kürzer als beim up.
Baut Ihr den Rahmen bald auch mit "Flat Mount" Bremsaufnahme?
Danke für die Beantwortung, sollte auch in English funktionieren.
Noch mal Glückwunsch zu euren Ideen!

Grüsse

KSI
Post #204 of 440. Posted by ksi on 12-Jan-2017 06:26:48 GMT [0<--1339]
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Hallo, kein Problem. Set-up mit 27,5 Zoll und Compact Kurbeln ist normal für das U.P., und von Chainsuck haben wir eigentlich nie Rückmeldungen. Für die Größe würde ich M empfehlen, eigentlich sind Sie genau in der Mitte für diese Größe.

Ueber neue Designs reden wir eigentlich nie, wir schauen uns ständig allerhand Sachen an aber wissen nicht ob/wann wir die einsetzen würden. Und neue Modellen sind fertig wenn sie fertig sind, wir haben nie Deadlines die wir erreichen müssen. Wir sind ja schon gross genug, brauchen nicht sofort etwas neues um zu verkaufen.
Post #207 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 15-Jan-2017 14:35:50 GMT [1339<--1346]
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Hi Gerard,
thank you for your answer.
No problems with chainsuck sounds good.
I also thought that M is the right size.
I’m not shure, if 170 mm pullout (SH 710 mm; STL 540 mm) for saddle AND seat post looks so good and will work well (flex).
Now I have at my Roadbike 200 mm and in mostly all pictures at your page this distance looks like about 250 mm.
Post / Flat is yet not so important for me, if the system works it works.
One last question:
Some BB are dimensioned 86,5 mm (c-bear) are they also ok?
I think I have to make a decision. Never ever was I so excited about a new bike and a complete new way of riding / biking.

Thank you for to have patience.

regards KSI

Post #208 of 440. Posted by ksi on 16-Jan-2017 07:06:43 GMT [1346<--1348]
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Hi, your seatpost extension will be fine. The bike in most of the photos is mine, an L, and I tend to ride with a lot of extension. We do like that for flex reasons but at the same time, since this is a road bike with massive tires, most of the flex will come from those tires anyway.

Post and flat mount both have their advantages, a nice one for post mount is that you can use MTB brake calipers (for example XTR brakes actuated by STI levers).

As for the BB's, 86.5mm = 86mm
Post #209 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 16-Jan-2017 08:22:08 GMT [1348<--1349]
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Have been riding my UP for a month now, and what an awesome experience! Doing technical single track one day and endurance road biking the next with just a change of wheels.

One question regarding crank options. I have a compact verve Infocrank I would like to use on the bike, but the left arm touches the frame (by 1 mm or so). Have you experience with/recommendations to give that little extra room needed for the power meter unit.
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Post #205 of 440. Posted by Anders on 13-Jan-2017 15:25:34 GMT [0<--1342]
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Most power cranks with pods or other protrusions on the inside of the crank won't fit. Only power cranks like the Rotor in-power and the new carbon SRM will fit.
Post #206 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 15-Jan-2017 14:30:30 GMT [1342<--1345]
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I saw the video about how SRAM BB30 or GXP cranks will work with the U.P. For someone who can choose either for a new build, which do you recommend, and why?Thanks!
Post #210 of 440. Posted by Rob Hollister on 16-Jan-2017 22:42:30 GMT [0<--1356]
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BB30. Lighter, stiffer, the future.
Post #211 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Jan-2017 14:53:25 GMT [1356<--1361]
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Hi there, just a quick query. Is there any other alternative to the supplied cane creek headset? Regards Chris
Post #212 of 440. Posted by Chris on 24-Jan-2017 17:52:59 GMT [0<--1399]
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Hi Chris, yes there are plenty of options in that standard. Cane Creek themselves have 3 levels, FSA has a few different levels as well, so as long as you stick to that SHIS standard that is listed in the specs, those all fit.
Post #213 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 26-Jan-2017 09:18:34 GMT [1399<--1411]
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Deda has a version that you, IN-5 can use.
http://www.deda...ching spacers are here
http://www.deda...g=en
Post #215 of 440. Posted by Rird on 31-Jan-2017 18:54:31 GMT [1399<--1440]
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Hey Gerard ,Ik zou verschillende van mijn fietsen verkopen en een OPEN UP frame kopen liefst bruin , afgemonteerd met dura ace 52-36 met een setje wegwielen en een setje winter cross wielen . Kan je met zo een fiets ook toeristen koersen meedoen ( type criterium) .
Ik rijd momenteel op een sorry voor het vloeken een ( venge s works.)
grt
Post #214 of 440. Posted by Erik on 31-Jan-2017 15:54:37 GMT [0<--1438]
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Tuurlijk, met als enige beperking dat de crank een 50/34 or 50/36 moet zijn. 52 past normaal gesproken niet (hangt wat van de crank en set-up af).
Post #216 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 31-Jan-2017 21:38:36 GMT [1438<--1442]
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Do the downtube, bottom bracket and chainstays have any chip protection? If not what do you recommend?
Post #217 of 440. Posted by George G on 02-Feb-2017 08:48:58 GMT [0<--1447]
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They don't. You can put anything you want really, but for the chain stay we do recommend glue-on solutions rather than wraps, as a wrap hurts the tire and chainring clearance.
Post #218 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 03-Feb-2017 15:59:15 GMT [1447<--1450]
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Hello, I'm cautious about internal cabling as I have had a very bad experience with a Cannondale synapse disc with constant cable rattle, especially hydraulic disc brake cable in the front fork. So my question is, can I be sure an UP will have no cable rattle?
Thanks.
Post #219 of 440. Posted by Calum Munro on 05-Feb-2017 09:42:52 GMT [0<--1452]
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Hi Calum, there is absolutely no hose (it's really not a cable, it's a hydraulic hose) rattling in our frame as we include a foam sleeve for the entire hose. If you go to the Tech Info section on this page (just below the Specifications), you will see an installation video that shows the foam.
Post #220 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Feb-2017 02:46:36 GMT [1452<--1453]
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Thanks.
Post #221 of 440. Posted by Calum Munro on 07-Feb-2017 14:13:33 GMT [1453<--1456]
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I've been riding a Soma Grand Randonneur 650b for a year now, and love it. Stiffness aside, I'm curious how you would compare the UP's handling to a low-trail bike like the Soma.
Post #222 of 440. Posted by Michael on 07-Feb-2017 18:49:49 GMT [0<--1457]
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Well, the U.P. is a geometry and a whole frame layout to generate really a fast, "road race bike" feel but while riding off-road. It's hard to explain it but many of the reviews you will see at the bottom of this page do a good job, that even though you may have 2.1" tires on the bike, it still feels quick and nimble. And even when you put bikepacking bags on. That's very different from a touring bike designed to handle well with racks and tons of baggage.
Post #223 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 09-Feb-2017 04:17:35 GMT [0<--1458]
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I see that Praxis has a new set of Buzz chainrings at a 48/32. I think I recall seeing an earlier post when you suggest that, for a dual chainring, it may be possible to get a little smaller than a 34 inner ring. I believe a 33 was possible (in a dual set up only). Have you received any reports of someone fitting the 48/32 on the UP and, if not, do you believe it may be possible (in theory)?
Post #224 of 440. Posted by Big Hammer on 09-Feb-2017 21:25:12 GMT [0<--1459]
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Yes, you can fit this. There are also micro compact crank with rings even smaller than 32. That should all work, you just need to make sure to set up the front derailleur low enough.
Post #225 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 10-Feb-2017 01:38:23 GMT [1459<--1460]
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Excellent - thanks!
Post #226 of 440. Posted by Big Hammer on 10-Feb-2017 05:24:36 GMT [1460<--1463]
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I' m working on a ne build with my LBS and plan on a ENVE wheel set to start. This will primarily be a Gravel build as I already own a new Specialized Roubaix Pro disc DI2. Any suggestions on starting with 29ers vs 650b. ENVE also has some new All Road wheel sets. Any recommendation? I see many M50 builds.
Post #228 of 440. Posted by Mike Smith on 21-Feb-2017 14:37:40 GMT [0<--1483]
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It does depend on where you ride, how good/bad the gravel is, but for versatility (especially if you already have a road bike) the 650b may make a lot of sense. Then you can really go anywhere and have lots of clearance. And then after six months you'll sell your road bike, get a second set of 700c wheels with road tires and create some extra space in your garage!
Post #231 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 23-Feb-2017 09:10:15 GMT [1483<--1490]
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Thanks, ordered the frame yesterday. I think my LBS is as excited to build this as I am to ride it.
Post #232 of 440. Posted by Mike Smith on 23-Feb-2017 10:13:32 GMT [1490<--1491]
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Hello, can i plan to use the Shimano Di2 on the UP. what brake calliper should i use? RS805 or RS785?
Post #229 of 440. Posted by MIchael Cheong on 22-Feb-2017 16:31:16 GMT [0<--1486]
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The U.P. is compatible with the R785.
Post #230 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 23-Feb-2017 09:10:03 GMT [1486<--1489]
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Or you can use SLX/XT/XTR/Zee/Saint ones
Post #251 of 440. Posted by Geraint on 04-Mar-2017 05:00:19 GMT [1489<--1555]
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Correct.
Post #252 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 04-Mar-2017 05:23:46 GMT [1555<--1559]
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Hi - I really like this bike - very impressive. And I applaud you for your participation in a recent forum thread regarding the U.P. - likely either The Paceline or The Riding Gravel Forum. I do have a question. I generally ride a 52x53 road bike and assume the size S would be the best fit for me. In particular because of the top tube length, head tube length and standover. But I'm concerned about the head tube angle of 69.5. It seems very slack compared to most of my road (and gravel) bikes and is in mtn bike territory. Especially since the fork rake appears to be the same as some of the larger frames. That said, I trust that you've considered it's effect on handling but would appreciate any comments on this. Thanks.
Post #233 of 440. Posted by Doug on 23-Feb-2017 17:19:57 GMT [0<--1492]
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Hi Doug, first off, if you want me to look at that sizing for you, just send me a note using the contact form on the left and i will give you some more detailed advice. Looking at toptube and head tube length can be quite deceiving, especially with different fork lengths and seat tube angles.

As for the head tube angle, maybe some owners of Small frames can jump in here if they happen to read it, but I think you'll find its handling is very balanced. If's slacker than road bikes for sure, but the offset is also bigger which counters that. The larger frames are very agile, but that simply would be too much for the smaller frames (it's the large frames that usually suffer from a more sluggish feel, hence the shorter trail).
Post #236 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 26-Feb-2017 17:54:46 GMT [1492<--1498]
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Thank you Gerard - your prompt reply is very appreciated. I agree re top tube and head tube lengths - I've read what you've said about that. The stack and reach on the size S is very close to a couple of other adventure bikes I own. Well, the stack is quite a bit lower but I'm ok w/that. So, I think the fit would be good. But, I'm mostly concerned about the trail number which seems significantly great than the others. So it would be great if some owners of a size S could share their thoughts. Thank you.
Post #238 of 440. Posted by Doug on 26-Feb-2017 21:28:52 GMT [1498<--1500]
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Hi, I am contemplating buying an Open UP and while reading some reviews I stumbled upon an article mentioning the possibility of having a BB converter in order to run a threaded BB instead of a Press Fit BB386EVO. My experience of the BB386EVO is unfortunately a fair bit a creaking, which is why I am interested in converters for threaded bottom Bracket that would fit the Open UP. I have heard that Praxis Works for instance have such converters. But after having a good look online the only products I could find are to convert BB30 or PF30 to threaded BB. But not the BB386 EVO. In fact on the Praxis works website, they clearly state that their BB converters are not for BB386 EVO. I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction if there are to your knowledge such BB conversion kit. Any advice would be great. Thanks in advance for your help with that. Kind Regards. Pierre
Post #234 of 440. Posted by Pierre on 26-Feb-2017 01:50:52 GMT [0<--1495]
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The Enduro TorqTite is a great way to avoid creaking of any frame. It threads the two sides of the BB cups into each other, and still works with 30 mm axle cranks. They also make a version compatible with 24 mm axle cranks. Is that what you're looking for?
Post #235 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 26-Feb-2017 17:41:42 GMT [1495<--1497]
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Hi Gerard. Thank you for your reply. Yes, this is exactly the kind of threaded bottom bracket I am after. I will start to look for one of those. Thanks again.
Post #237 of 440. Posted by Pierre on 26-Feb-2017 17:55:26 GMT [1497<--1499]
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Just trying to make sure I'm not missing anything: flat-mount brake compatibility cost $USD 1600 over a post-mount frame? I understand new tooling is required for the frame, but that would be a single tube/dropout mold? Am I missing anything? A new fork?
Post #239 of 440. Posted by Alex M. on 27-Feb-2017 13:45:15 GMT [0<--1503]
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I think this is answered in the very first section of this page? It's listed exactly what the differences are, including that the U.P.P.E.R. frame is much lighter, the fork is new, the thru-axles are different, the flat mount vs post mount and the paint. I'm not sure how much new tooling is needed, they don't mention it here on the page but Gerard did mention something about the tooling and the new layup during the live web stream. Andy and Gerard also went into more detail about the differences, but it all evolved around the ones mentioned there.
Post #240 of 440. Posted by Jim Kasach on 27-Feb-2017 17:40:07 GMT [1503<--1507]
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Ok, I missed the part about the different layup and how much more complex the upper's is. But that important detail is buried in the copy, not in the first section. Unrelated, but I can't get over how much better this bike looks in black - which is telling since I don't usually dig black bikes.
Post #241 of 440. Posted by Alex M. on 27-Feb-2017 21:44:10 GMT [1507<--1508]
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what is the widest tire the UPPER fork will take?
Post #242 of 440. Posted by sam on 28-Feb-2017 11:26:25 GMT [0<--1522]
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Wider than you'd want to ride probably, around 65mm or 2.5" assuming a 650b diameter of course.
Post #246 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 28-Feb-2017 17:32:40 GMT [1522<--1531]
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Now a happy UP owner for almost a year, but when I recently upgraded to Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.25" my life improved even more. Such a smooth ride!
However, to mount a tire even wider than that, the limiting factor would not be the fork itself, but the front brake cable, and in particular the uppermost fixation ring. Tape would of course fix it, but who would want to ruin the beautiful esthetics? A minute design imperfection of the fork, that maybe could be the target for future improvement, Gerard?
Post #249 of 440. Posted by Bengan on 02-Mar-2017 12:23:55 GMT [1531<--1547]
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Have you replaced the clip with a zip-tie (or was it always a zip-tie)? That would help the situation a bit but I agree, it's not ideal.
Post #250 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 02-Mar-2017 14:44:49 GMT [1547<--1549]
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wonder if you might do a 12mm through axle fork for the exploro too? it would open up some other wheel options..
Post #244 of 440. Posted by chris on 28-Feb-2017 12:09:28 GMT [0<--1524]
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Hi,
i use the 3t luteus II Fork. Is there are a alternate for the Thru Axle from 3T? It is heavy wight. Which thread norm is it? Thanks
Post #253 of 440. Posted by Tom on 14-Mar-2017 11:26:37 GMT [0<--1604]
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It's a 15x1.5mm thread. Tune makes a thru axle that should work.
Post #254 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 14-Mar-2017 15:48:03 GMT [1604<--1605]
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Thanks for the fast answer. I d'ont find that of the Tune Website. Is it the Tune DC 15 for DT Swiss Forks whit 135,5 mm length? Thats 10 mm longer as 3T?
Post #255 of 440. Posted by Tom on 15-Mar-2017 02:58:27 GMT [1605<--2602]
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Sorry, that doesn't exist anymore. I know of some people who use this thru-axle, I can't endorse it as I haven't tried it myself, but people tell me it fits: http://www.shif....html
Post #257 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 18-Mar-2017 14:04:54 GMT [2602<--2610]
OPEN
Saddle for OPEN U.P. build. MTB or Road for Gravel
Post #256 of 440. Posted by Mike Smith on 15-Mar-2017 16:59:35 GMT [0<--2604]
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Hi Mike, I am not sure, is this a question or a comment related to somebody else's comment here on the page? If it's a question, it's a bit too cryptic for me. Just shoot me a direct message with the Contact form at left and I'll help you.
Post #258 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 18-Mar-2017 21:54:29 GMT [2604<--2615]
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Hi Gerard; I admire what you have done here and have done for so many years (I love all my Cervelos that I have had over the years).. This looks like a fabulous bike and I wish you great success with the project(s)..!!! I had many long chats with fellow club member Damon Rinard about design philosophy, etc., and it's great to see that you are still 'seeking' with passion and honesty, even after so many years in the business..!

I've been thinking about an U.P for months now and am just about ready to make my move .. but I would like to build this as a flat-bar bike .. Yes odd maybe, but my use is for more trail and rougher stuff rather than the normal CX riding conditions.. I am wrestling with sizing: normally my best fit in a road bike (and cyclocross) would be with a 56.5 - 57.5cm top tube. But given the angles here, and also that I'm essentially making it into a 'mountain bike' (which for various reasons always have longer top tubes and front reach), I am wondering whether to go up a size to the XL, whereas I would normally fit perfectly your L frame if it were with drop bars. Can you shed some light onto my dilemma? (in the end I might just revert to drop bars if this is a disaster, but I have several amazing cross bikes that do their job well).. Apologies in advance if it looks like I'm turning your 'jewel' into Franken-bike..
Thanks !
Post #259 of 440. Posted by N.K. on 24-Mar-2017 10:39:24 GMT [0<--2634]
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Well, I think you're not trying to build a hardtail around the UP frame, right, because if you want a 100% hardtail, get a hardtail frame. If I read you correctly, you want to ride where you would ride an UP, and a bit tougher (or maybe as tough as many UP riders do, but with a higher level of control or "uprightness" that matches your needs and not theirs). In that case, I would say you go with the regular UP frame size as if it were a road frame. Yes, a hardtail has a longer reach, but it also has normally a shorter stem. There are several examples of this in the SHOWCASE on this website.

On the other hand, if you already have several cross bikes you have done this with, I'd recommend doing the same sizing for the UP. Because whether my theory or your assumptions are correct doesn't really matter, what matters most is what you actually ride already.
Post #262 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 25-Mar-2017 23:25:44 GMT [2634<--2645]
OPEN
Thanks Gerard for your comment; I think it does help me to confirm going with my regular road/CX size frame, even though I am using a flat-bar handlebar. If it feels too cramped, well then I'll put on the drop bars. No, I have not done this to my CX bikes, they have normal drop bars, so this is really new territory for me. I am doing this because I feel too 'lanky' on the technical and rough stuff using a CX bike and wanted more control, but don't really like riding a proper hardtail MTB or 29er.. I don't care for suspension and I'm not really planning to jump off cliffs with it. You mentioned some photos in the OPEN galleries, but I do not see any with flat-bar setups..? Thanks again.!
Post #264 of 440. Posted by N.K. on 26-Mar-2017 12:56:31 GMT [2645<--2653]
OPEN
This one for example: https://opencyc...ioci. Note, this is the consumer SHOWCASE (See link in main menu on top), maybe you were looking in the galleries on this U.P. page?
Post #265 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Mar-2017 12:29:09 GMT [2653<--2656]
OPEN
Ahhh, yes; there it is. What a beauty! ..Indeed, I was looking at the Galleries in U.P. page. Nice long stem on there, which I think gives me 'corragio' with this build on a size L frame .. Thanks again for all your attention..!
Post #267 of 440. Posted by N.K. on 27-Mar-2017 13:51:51 GMT [2656<--2659]
OPEN
Are you going to sell the new UPPER fork separately and in the UP brown and orange for anyone wanting to upgrade ?
Post #260 of 440. Posted by Dylan on 24-Mar-2017 10:56:05 GMT [0<--2636]
OPEN
Hi Dylan, we plan to do so but not in the next 4 month as we need the full capacity for the U.P.P.E.R. right now
Post #261 of 440. Posted by Andy Kessler on 24-Mar-2017 11:13:55 GMT [2636<--2637]
OPEN
Where can I get the spacer for bb 30?
Post #263 of 440. Posted by Naoki on 26-Mar-2017 08:22:04 GMT [0<--2649]
OPEN
Hi Naoki, which spacer do you mean exactly?
Post #266 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Mar-2017 12:29:46 GMT [2649<--2657]
OPEN
Thank you for your prompt reply.
It is a spacer for using crank of BB30 specification of sram force 1 in U.P. frame.
(3.2mm and 2.5mm and the other.)

Post #270 of 440. Posted by Naoki on 27-Mar-2017 19:14:46 GMT [2657<--2664]
OPEN
Hi Naoki, any shop should have those, they normally have tons of those lying around because the cranks come with way too many of them.
Post #271 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Mar-2017 20:50:48 GMT [2664<--2666]
OPEN
Thanks Gerard.
Post #272 of 440. Posted by Naoki on 28-Mar-2017 08:06:39 GMT [2666<--2667]
OPEN
Hello
About to buy a custom frame of the OPEN UP in orange. Looking to get orange bar tape that matches the frame. Any brand recommendation that has a matching color ?
Post #268 of 440. Posted by Olivier on 27-Mar-2017 14:12:11 GMT [0<--2660]
OPEN
Hi Olivier, I'm a bit confused about you saying it's a "custom" frame, do you mean the frame is a different orange than our standard orange frame? For our standard orange (or really any orange), it can be quite tough to match exactly with things like a saddle and bar tape, since even the materials are different which affects the look. But Fabric is a company that makes saddles and tape in a lot of different colors, I know that a lot of our customers find good luck with that. Another option of course is to go with one of the other accent colors that come out of our logo (in the ring around the head tube), for example the green (Fabric is quite a good match) or the blue (also pretty good). Hope that helps.
Post #269 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 27-Mar-2017 16:32:10 GMT [2660<--2661]
OPEN
Ha no I meant the bike will be custom built from the standard orange frame you offer :-)
Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll try the standard Deda tape in "Ocra Instense" it seems to be a match. If not i'll definitely try matching one of the other colors or resort to standard black :-p
Post #273 of 440. Posted by Olivier on 28-Mar-2017 13:04:30 GMT [2661<--2668]
OPEN
Look at Origin8; they have a black tape with orange background.
Post #274 of 440. Posted by Mike on 30-Mar-2017 11:56:26 GMT [2668<--2698]
OPEN
No worries, that's what I figured. I was pretty sure Andy hadn't started a custom frame program without telling me!
Post #275 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 30-Mar-2017 12:45:35 GMT [2668<--2700]
OPEN
Beautiful bike. Superb frame with polished welds.
I am looking for a gravel bikes, but unfortunately a little expensive for me )-
Post #276 of 440. Posted by StephCar on 04-Apr-2017 08:17:13 GMT [0<--2765]
OPEN
Yes they look amazing, the welds, almost carbon like!
Post #277 of 440. Posted by Stephen on 04-Apr-2017 11:32:32 GMT [2765<--2766]
OPEN
As soon as Sram get their fingers out and release an eTap 1 X Hydro group set (Clutch derailleur) I'll be adding the U.P.P.E.R to basket :)
If there are no plans for it then Force 1 X will have to do!?
Post #278 of 440. Posted by Stephen on 04-Apr-2017 11:38:05 GMT [0<--2767]
OPEN
We're not aware of any release plans for eTap 1x, unfortunately.
Post #279 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 04-Apr-2017 16:33:26 GMT [2767<--2768]
OPEN
they "only" would need to release e-clutch derailleurs, the eTap shifters might work straight away (dropping the front derailleur) or could be updated...
Post #282 of 440. Posted by martin on 06-Apr-2017 11:42:26 GMT [2768<--2774]
OPEN
I read in your comments section that you might be, in the future, making your U.P.P.E.R U-Turn fork available to buy on it's own? If you do will it fit the 3T Exploro frame set?
Post #280 of 440. Posted by Stephen on 06-Apr-2017 05:23:56 GMT [0<--2771]
OPEN
Forget that, just read the spec sheet!
Post #281 of 440. Posted by Stephen on 06-Apr-2017 05:27:53 GMT [2771<--2772]
OPEN
i"d like to run Enve M50 29er wheels with 30mm cross tires is this compatible with the UP set up.
Post #283 of 440. Posted by Mark on 08-Apr-2017 06:38:53 GMT [0<--2776]
OPEN
Yes, absolutely. I presume those M50 are built with standard mtb hubs (142mm axle), not a Boost hub (148mm)
Post #284 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 09-Apr-2017 21:49:55 GMT [2776<--2777]
OPEN
Gerard, What tyre/wheel sizes I could use with Sram eTap 2 x groupset, please?
Post #285 of 440. Posted by Stephen on 10-Apr-2017 11:25:21 GMT [0<--2778]
OPEN
^ On the Open U.P frame?
Post #286 of 440. Posted by Stephen on 10-Apr-2017 11:26:22 GMT [2778<--2779]
OPEN
Officially 30mm. In reality plenty people use 35mm, it all depends a bit on the clearance you want and the rim/tire combination you use (i.e. rim width and tire width fibbing). BTW, not really an UP issue, it's the same for any frame using the eTap, except most frames themselves limit tire width a bit sooner than the UP.
Post #289 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 11-Apr-2017 14:55:34 GMT [2778<--2787]
OPEN
Thanks Gerard,
My LBS is getting eTap Hydro in June (hopefully)
Post #292 of 440. Posted by Stephen on 12-Apr-2017 04:39:16 GMT [2787<--3785]
OPEN
Hi Gerard, I was planning to go with an eTap build but have just seen this comment. What is the limiting factor? Is this the same with all 2x setups, just eTap or just SRAM?? I was looking forward to riding a clean looking eTap on wider 40mm tires... ??
Post #390 of 440. Posted by Simon Boyd on 12-Aug-2017 04:42:00 GMT [2787<--6979]
OPEN
Ok....found the thead elsewhere on the site. May have to consider Di2 instead....or go with 1x. I see from your interview on Road.cc recently tha you think we will all be 1x in the not too distant future but I am still concerned over the limitations/compromises required over total gear range vs steps between gears. If I was just planning to be running on gravel and in the forrests I would be more comfortable but for long distance rides inculdeing steeper gradients, I am still not sure...
Post #391 of 440. Posted by Simon Boyd on 12-Aug-2017 07:03:00 GMT [6979<--6980]
OPEN
Interested to just see that Lauf are claiming 40mm clearance with their new True Grit bike and eTap...using a wider spindle for the model spec'ed with that group....
Post #392 of 440. Posted by Simon Boyd on 12-Aug-2017 09:19:20 GMT [6980<--6981]
OPEN
Yes, of course you can do that. If you make wider cranks with wider rings the FD also moves out. But it hurts your pedalling efficiency, one of the differences between road and mountain bikes. In reality, eTap also fits larger than the 30mm that SRAM officially claims, but they like to stay on the safe side.
Post #393 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 12-Aug-2017 10:14:39 GMT [6981<--6982]
OPEN
Hi Simon, the funny part is, the easiest way to get a wide range is with 1x. There are 1x systems with more than 500% range, very hard to get that on most 2x. As for the steps, I really never feel like I'm missing something on my gravel bike despite the large range. But of course it's a personal choice. That said, you definitely don't need the FD that much, so it's not that important to electrify it.
Post #395 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 12-Aug-2017 10:18:36 GMT [6980<--6985]
OPEN
Thanks Gerard. You have me moving towards a 1x system. I guess I need to try it before deciding. I have a Rohloff speedhub on a city bike and I never use all the gears. I also look forward to seeing what SRAM come out with for next season. Maybe even a Red eTap 1x.... ??
Post #396 of 440. Posted by Simon Boyd on 13-Aug-2017 04:19:30 GMT [6985<--6986]
OPEN
You can read more here: https://www.ope...bikes
Post #394 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 12-Aug-2017 10:15:07 GMT [6979<--6983]
OPEN
I don't suppose you guys are planning to make the U.P. frame flat mount in the near future? More and more brakes coming flat mount.
Post #287 of 440. Posted by Rod on 10-Apr-2017 21:33:33 GMT [0<--2780]
OPEN
Well, most brakes still come in both flat mount and post mount. And some still only in post mount (for example all the MTB brakes that fit on the UP) and then some indeed only in flat mount (new DuraAce being the relevant one). So we'll keep monitoring the situation, luckily for us we don't need 12 months lead time like "normal" bike companies, we can make such changes very rapidly. But for now we have the UP with post mount and the UPPER with flat mount and we'll see how the market develops.
Post #288 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 11-Apr-2017 14:53:44 GMT [2780<--2786]
OPEN
Great - thx for reply. Was looking at eTap HRD but actually looks like those brakes are post mount.
Post #290 of 440. Posted by bikerh on 11-Apr-2017 15:13:27 GMT [2786<--2788]
OPEN
The disc brake eTap should be out very soon, according to SRAM's statements at last year's bike shows anyway.
Post #291 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 11-Apr-2017 16:25:30 GMT [2788<--2789]
OPEN
I purchased an Orange Open UP just recently and picked up a stone chip I'd like to fix. Can you advise the colour code?
Post #295 of 440. Posted by Rob Brice on 16-Apr-2017 04:22:43 GMT [0<--3794]
OPEN
Touch up paint doesn't really work well with colour codes. The best thing to do is visit a car body repair shop with the bike and match visually.
Post #296 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 21-Apr-2017 14:22:44 GMT [3794<--3800]
OPEN
U.P.P.E.R cross/gravel - very interesting but for me too complicated only to buy a frame, i need a total solution, one-stop-shop you might say, could you build some bikes with e.g. SRAM Force single speed and whatever light parts you prefer and give a TOTAL weight and price? how low could you get a Cross U.P.P.E.R ?
Post #300 of 440. Posted by Jesper on 25-Apr-2017 07:25:01 GMT [0<--3816]
OPEN
How low in weight that is :)
Post #301 of 440. Posted by Jesper on 25-Apr-2017 07:26:55 GMT [3816<--3817]
OPEN
You can get 7kg with good, durable parts, not super light stuff that doesn't work. If you take good care of the weight of course.

All our our dealers do complete bikes, they do them exactly how you like them and most of them also have some "standard" suggested packages that are well-suited for the type of riding in your area (which may be quite different from where other customers live). So best to check directly with them. https://opencyc...alers
Post #302 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 25-Apr-2017 20:30:28 GMT [3816<--3818]
OPEN
Do you plan to offer orange or red color option in the next months for the U.P.P.E.R frame ?
Arnauld ( happy rider of an Open O-1.0 & owner of too many black frames...)
Post #303 of 440. Posted by de la rochette on 01-May-2017 06:45:19 GMT [0<--3828]
OPEN
Hi Arnauld, we have no plans for that. We do have UPPERs in Ready-To-Paint coming soon, so then you can paint it in any color you like if you have a local painter.
Post #304 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 03-May-2017 12:24:19 GMT [3828<--3835]
OPEN
Is a 40mm tire on a 650b wheel acceptable or too small overall diameter?
Post #305 of 440. Posted by Robert on 03-May-2017 14:52:55 GMT [0<--3838]
OPEN
also, a chart on the website showing what range tire sizes are acceptable on different wheel sizes would be great!
Post #306 of 440. Posted by Robert on 03-May-2017 14:56:14 GMT [3838<--3839]
OPEN
It's a bit on the small side but we do have some customers running even 38mm tires on 650b.
Post #311 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-May-2017 16:04:05 GMT [3838<--3844]
OPEN
I have an OPEN UP with the 3T Luteus II fork and wanted to swap the included 'quick release style' thru axle for one that sits flush with the fork (and removed with a 6mm allen key) - do you have any recommendations?
Post #307 of 440. Posted by thechesh on 04-May-2017 08:40:17 GMT [0<--3840]
OPEN
Here's one option that quite a few people use, although we haven't tried it yet so we can't really endorse it one way or another: http://www.shif....html
Post #310 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-May-2017 16:03:02 GMT [3840<--3843]
OPEN
Fantastic, have ordered one now - thanks for the prompt reply Gerard.
Post #312 of 440. Posted by thechesh on 07-May-2017 17:00:05 GMT [3843<--4842]
OPEN
Hi, Have you or anyone else tried to fit the new FOX AX fork onto the U.P.?
Wondering if it will fit and how it will effect geometry good or bad.

Thanks
Post #308 of 440. Posted by Bill on 07-May-2017 02:03:10 GMT [0<--3841]
OPEN
Geometry should be OK, we'll need to ride it more before we can really give our opinion on it though. We'll have one in a future BOTM.
Post #309 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-May-2017 16:01:01 GMT [3841<--3842]
OPEN
Bonjour,
Je mesure 1 m80 ETJ 88 cm et sortie de selle 77 cm, quelle est la taille de cadre optimale M ou L
Merci
Sportivement
Post #313 of 440. Posted by Olivier on 11-May-2017 08:46:11 GMT [0<--4843]
OPEN
Bonjour Olivier, c'est mieux si tu peut m'envoyer un message (la forme CONTACT a gauche de ce page) avec d'information concernant le velo de route/gravel/cyclocross que tu roules a ce moment. Marque, modele, taille. Merci, Gerard.
Post #322 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 16-May-2017 04:55:46 GMT [4843<--4858]
OPEN
In the Ready-to-Paint version it would be nice to still preserve the "OPEN" logo that's on the down-tube in your pre-painted frames. Do you have some way to preserve that, e.g. a decal that gets stuck on between the paint & clear coat layers, or ...?

I'm not yet sure I'll go this way; I'm starting from scratch to 1) find somebody who will do awesome, 2) what I'd want it to look like, and 3) make sure the paint job doesn't cost more than the frame! :-) Any thoughts as to whether people have had better luck looking for a bicycle, motorcycle, or car custom painter?

(The hardest decision, though it doesn't require comment: Whether to go Force 1x or double chainring. I sense I may use this on road frequently, and I may want the narrower gearing afforded with 2 chainrings.)
Post #314 of 440. Posted by Jay Batson on 13-May-2017 16:28:15 GMT [0<--4846]
OPEN
BTW - this assumes I can *order* the Ready-to-Paint version from you. I note that it's not in the store.... No hurry if it's not immediately in-stock - though I'm hoping it might be order-able with some notice (e.g. a month or two lead-time).
Post #315 of 440. Posted by Jay Batson on 14-May-2017 00:27:50 GMT [4846<--4847]
OPEN
RTP will be added to the store soon.
Post #321 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 16-May-2017 04:51:59 GMT [4847<--4855]
OPEN
IF you happen to remember, could you post here when your next batch of RTP frames hit the site? I've got a local frame painter (https://www.ins...int/) that I'd love to have tackle a frame with a swell paint job.

I'll monitor the store every few days; but I'd be more comfortable if you could post as a follow-up comment here, so I'd get notice.
Post #332 of 440. Posted by Jay Batson on 26-May-2017 12:23:03 GMT [4855<--4882]
OPEN
Oops - looks like the comment function kept the close-paren in the link to my painter. If you're interested in seeing it, just click the link, then remove the ) from the URL in your browser....
Post #333 of 440. Posted by Jay Batson on 26-May-2017 12:24:09 GMT [4882<--4883]
OPEN
Hi Jay, we'll add the RTP to the webstore next week with the proper time frames for them. And those time frames will be very similar for those RTP frames purchased via an OPEN retailer.
Post #334 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 26-May-2017 12:33:25 GMT [4882<--4884]
OPEN
Awesome! I'll check back next week.

(I'm intending to build my bike myself. (Not my first rodeo.) So you can expect my order online :-D )
Post #335 of 440. Posted by Jay Batson on 26-May-2017 12:51:00 GMT [4884<--4885]
OPEN
Many custom painters will paint the logo with masks, rather than using decals. But either way, we don't supply the decals as they are specific to our painting method, but custom painters do recreate the decals or masks that they need to put OPEN on the downtube for example. Along with any other paint scheme you may want.
Post #320 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 16-May-2017 04:51:37 GMT [4846<--4854]
OPEN
Hello. I just ordered an UP and am a bit confused about which cranks I can use after watching the video. I have Rotor 3D+ cranks and I want to run a double up front. It sounds like this may not be possible based on the video on crank compatibility I watched. Rotor makes a BB386 BB, so is this some sort of issue with the frame clearing it? Thanks for the help as I would love to not have to buy new cranks.
Post #316 of 440. Posted by Bryan on 15-May-2017 00:33:27 GMT [0<--4848]
OPEN
The BB386EVO Rotor crank should fit the frame, both double and single. Of course you do need the compact spider (110mm BCD), not the 130 BCD, is that what you are referring to?
Post #319 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 16-May-2017 04:49:47 GMT [4848<--4853]
OPEN
Wondering where the frame is actually built?
Post #317 of 440. Posted by Chris on 15-May-2017 02:31:23 GMT [0<--4849]
OPEN
The UP is built in Asia.
Post #318 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 16-May-2017 04:48:29 GMT [4849<--4852]
OPEN
for the UP, is there a workaround to mount Stages Powermeter on a Ultegra crankset?
Post #323 of 440. Posted by Lars on 17-May-2017 07:32:30 GMT [0<--4863]
OPEN
Not on an Ultegra crankset as far as I know.
Post #324 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 18-May-2017 17:44:18 GMT [4863<--4869]
OPEN
Gerard,
Why are Campy cranks a problem with the U.P. and UPPER frameset? Does the new H11 Ultra-Torque cranksets solve this problem by moving the chain rings outboard by 3-4mm, without a change in Q factor? Is the Q factor the issue with arm clearance with the chainstays? I've been in the retail side of the bicycle industry for 39 years, so I'm pretty familiar with many compatibility issues.
Thanks, Rick
Post #325 of 440. Posted by Rick Olsen, Tacoma Bike on 22-May-2017 00:47:34 GMT [0<--4872]
OPEN
Hi Rick, this may sound crazy but we don't know why they are a problem. The Potenza crank works, no problem whatsoever. There's at least one in the showcase. The Record crank has the exact same relevant dimensions according to the technical drawings, but it doesn't work from what several dealers have told us. We don't understand it, but people are obviously upset when they find out their Campy crank doesn't fit, so that's why we warn for it. But again, the Potenza crank works.
Post #328 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 23-May-2017 18:39:27 GMT [4872<--4877]
OPEN
GV you are a frame designing guru/genius (Open & 3T) keep up the fantastic work and taking my hard earned readies ???? (Thumbs up emoji)
Post #326 of 440. Posted by Stevie on 22-May-2017 15:30:16 GMT [0<--4873]
OPEN
Thanks Stevie, I do hope though that these bikes will allow you to part with fewer hard earned pecunias.
Post #329 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 23-May-2017 18:41:04 GMT [4873<--4878]
OPEN
They're a few bikes in one so I'm happy with that, so is my wife. Happy wife, happy life!
Post #330 of 440. Posted by Stevie on 24-May-2017 07:25:59 GMT [4878<--4880]
OPEN
I bought an OPEN UP frame (orange) and I want to install the new Sram Force CX1. The specs of the crankset is BB30 and the link is: https://www.bik...9
Can
you inform me if the crankset of the link above is compatible with the frame?
Post #327 of 440. Posted by Panagiotis Vosnidis on 23-May-2017 03:16:28 GMT [0<--4874]
OPEN
If it is a new model crank, then yes. It seems to indicate such with the description "30mm axle FULL LENGTH" but it's not 100% clear from that site. I would assume they have current product, not a previous year model, but you might want to ask them to be sure.
Post #331 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 24-May-2017 08:44:53 GMT [4874<--4881]
OPEN
Hi, can you inform me the difference between the Sram Force CX1 BB386 crankset and the Sram Force CX1 BB30 (FULL LENGTH)? If the BB30 crank will fit a BB386EVO what is the need for the BB386 crank?
Post #353 of 440. Posted by Michalis Karatzis on 24-Jun-2017 04:06:40 GMT [4881<--5907]
OPEN
Hi Michael, I have no idea, SRAM's descriptions are sometimes hard to comprehend. Maybe the BB386 crank is a BB30 crank without the one spacer you need to remove, maybe it's just a retailer describing it a certain way, I don't know. I don't really see SRAM making the distinction between the two.
Post #354 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 24-Jun-2017 10:41:30 GMT [5907<--5908]
OPEN
I´m planning to buy a U.P.P.E.R M size frame, and install Ultegra crankset with stages powermeter ( which I already own ) on it.
What kind of BB and adaptors do I need, please ?
Thank you.
Post #336 of 440. Posted by Agusti on 26-May-2017 17:49:28 GMT [0<--4886]
OPEN
Hi Agusti, I do not believe the Ultegra STAGES crank will clear the chain stays of the UPPER. Because we have such great tire clearance, we need all the remaining space between the wheel and the crank for the chain stays. Hence large pods that hang on the inside of the crank arm are a problem. If you need more info, feel free to use the form on the left to contact me.
Post #341 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 29-May-2017 15:37:59 GMT [4886<--4891]
OPEN
Hi Gerard,
Sort of the same question as above - I would like dual power meters (left and right numbers separated) and was going to get the compact dura ace 9000 175mm length crank with a 4iiii left crank arm power meter and a right spider power meter installed on to it. As far as I am aware, it is more compact than the stages version and stands out less from the left crank arm - any idea if I should go ahead and purchase? Any other immediately available dual sided power meters you could recommend - by far, my plan A is the above, with a bb 386 evo 4624mm.
If you for eg. recommend the rotor 2 in power, what BB should I get? (ie. spindle width vs 24mm spindle for shimano etc.) I get confused by all the nomenclature, eg. bb right etc, etc.
Post #348 of 440. Posted by gordon craib on 19-Jun-2017 15:45:32 GMT [4891<--5900]
OPEN
4iiii is more compact but I don't know if it is compact enough. Obviously the Rotor always works. As for their recommended BB, it's really best to ask them. The BB shell is standard: BB386EVO. The cranks and bearings are all over the place nowadays, so always best to ask the crank manufacturer which bearing set they recommend for BB386EVO.
Post #359 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 05-Jul-2017 16:17:26 GMT [5900<--5913]
OPEN
Hi Gerard,
I'm having persistent trouble with my UP and Sram CX 1 x 11 shifting. After only a few rides from new the shifting was troublesome so I decided to install a new cable. The problem quickly returned. I have since had another new cable installed by a LBS whose mechanical expertise is of the highest calibre and again the set up works on the workshop jig and for a test ride around the car park but once ridden for an hour or so the problem of sloppy shifting - having to shift twice and then back one to settle things down returns.
The only "cure" thus far appears to be to allow the cable to run free outside of the bar tape hence removing the rather tight bend on the cable when exiting the CX1 shifter
I wondered if this was something other UP owners have experienced and or if you had any idea what the cause of the problem may be. (the rear mech has not been damaged in anyway nor has the shifter and as described above removing the tight cable curve from the cable route eliminates the problem but obviously looks rubbish).
I look forward to your comments - I appreciate there are many UP's out there with the same set up.


Many Thanks
Post #337 of 440. Posted by Mark on 27-May-2017 05:48:36 GMT [0<--4887]
OPEN
Hi Mark, that doesn't sound familiar, and the SRAM 1x is probably the most used set-up so we would have heard from others too (aside from the fact that Andy and I use it a lot too).

My first thought is, is the rear derailleur hanger properly tightened in the frame? There is a cap on the outside of the dropout that has to be properly tightened, otherwise the hanger can move and then shifting can definitely be off. If that doesn't solve it, just contact Andy with the form on the left, he will then get back to you and probably ask some photos which you can then send. But check the hanger cap first.
Post #340 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 29-May-2017 15:36:10 GMT [4887<--4890]
OPEN
can i run campy chorus cranks?
Post #338 of 440. Posted by pete tabor on 27-May-2017 14:13:19 GMT [0<--4888]
OPEN
You can run the new disc brake group and its crank, the Potenza. The jury is out on the Chorus crank, some people seem to have experienced issues with installing it.
Post #339 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 29-May-2017 15:31:04 GMT [4888<--4889]
OPEN
Hi, Just purchased an U.P. frameset, and intend to do the build myself. However I am bit confused on BB/Crankset and what spacers, if any,to use.

I have an Easton EC90 SL Crankset,
https://www.eas...nk
It
comes supplied with a "Cinch Ring" ??

And I intend to use a Wheels Manufacturing 386EVO ZERØ CERAMIC BB (Threaded).
http://wheelsmf...l
Can
you offer any help on what spacers, if any, I should use? What are the spacers used for, where do they go? And what should I be aiming for when setting crankset up?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. PS. LOVE this bike!!
Post #342 of 440. Posted by Andrew Gadd on 06-Jun-2017 15:31:25 GMT [0<--4894]
OPEN
Sorry the links did not work. Here they are again
https://www.eas....html
Post #343 of 440. Posted by Andrew Gadd on 06-Jun-2017 15:35:19 GMT [4894<--4895]
OPEN
Good question, but I am not sure you need any spacers with the Cinch system. But that's really a question for Easton, it would be the same on any BB386EVO frame and I am not sure what they recommend for that particular crank.
Post #344 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Jun-2017 16:57:01 GMT [4895<--4896]
OPEN
is there any way that I can use a xtr or xt 2x setup with a front derailleur on the UPPER?
Post #345 of 440. Posted by Steve Bailey on 13-Jun-2017 18:32:41 GMT [0<--4898]
OPEN
You can use an XTR 1x set-up (Di2) or for 2x you can set it up with DuraAce. You can't set Di2 XTR for 2x (software won't work).
Post #372 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Jul-2017 23:45:28 GMT [4898<--6939]
OPEN
At some point will the U-turn fork he available with the U.P. frame? My reason for asking is front axle compatibility- my road disc bike has an Enve fork with 12mm axle while the 3T Luteus is a 15mm. Having some ability to interchange wheels would be very useful.
Post #346 of 440. Posted by Neil Ashton on 16-Jun-2017 08:48:32 GMT [0<--5898]
OPEN
It may, right now we can only produce enough for the UPPER though.
Post #373 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Jul-2017 23:45:56 GMT [5898<--6940]
OPEN
Very interested in this too. Running into the same issue.
Post #376 of 440. Posted by Jason on 24-Jul-2017 14:57:06 GMT [6940<--6951]
OPEN
Hi All,
I´m only a "user" of a mountainbike. Biking only 2-3 times a week and unfortunately very often on streets. Now I saw the Open bikes. Could they solve my problem - 70% street, 20% gravel and 10% with my mountain bike.
I am not the specialist to discuss special frame sets, fork types etc.
Would you suggest UP or UPPER??
Thanx for your proposals
Post #347 of 440. Posted by Lui on 17-Jun-2017 11:36:22 GMT [0<--5899]
OPEN
Hi Lui,

sorry for the very late reply. We normally are not that bad with answering. Yes, yes for you that would be the right bike. The nice thing about the UP/UPPER is that your position is like on a road bike and therefore you are much faster on pavement and gravel. If you really want to do trails also then you could go with 27.5 wheels and have a 2.1 MTB tire also. But also with 29/700C wheels and a 36-40mm tire you can do a lot of trail stuff. We could have a call also if you want. just send me a mail with the contact button at the left side of that screen
Post #371 of 440. Posted by Andy Kessler on 13-Jul-2017 09:49:01 GMT [5899<--6930]
OPEN
Hello,
At my new Exploro cracks the seatpost. Above all, in phases of relief, a clear sound can be heard. I put them on with 9 Newton. Is there a solution? Greatings, Tom
Post #350 of 440. Posted by Tom on 22-Jun-2017 11:55:45 GMT [0<--5904]
OPEN
Hi Gerard,
I would like dual power meters (left and right numbers separated) and was going to get the compact dura ace 9000 175mm length crank with a 4iiii left crank arm power meter and a right spider power meter installed on to it. As far as I am aware, it is more compact than the stages version and stands out less from the left crank arm - any idea if I should go ahead and purchase? Any other immediately available dual sided power meters you could recommend - by far, my plan A is the above, with a bb 386 evo 4624mm.
If you for eg. recommend the rotor 2 in power, what BB should I get? (ie. spindle width vs 24mm spindle for shimano etc.) I get confused by all the nomenclature, eg. bb right etc, etc.
Could you give me an exact bb 386 evo brand - threaded and non threaded manufacturer options?
I was thinking of the Rotor PF46 EVO386 Ceramic Bottom Bracket with 24mm spindle size, if going for my crank of choice, which was shimano dura-ace 50/34 9100 compact.
Post #351 of 440. Posted by gordon craib on 23-Jun-2017 00:30:53 GMT [0<--5905]
OPEN
Hi Gordon, the BB386EVO is a standard, so any BB with that standard will fit into our frame. That is not the problem, the issue may be if the BB works with the crank you want. So I would always recommend to go with the BB recommendation that the crank manufacturer suggests, for us from the frame side it really doesn't matter.
Post #374 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Jul-2017 23:48:14 GMT [5905<--6941]
OPEN
I'm interested with new gravel tire WTB resolute 42C with 700C wheels. Do you know if frame will offer enough clearance for rear tire ?
Does somebody try this ?
Thks a lot
Post #352 of 440. Posted by Sylvain BARRILLON on 23-Jun-2017 13:39:36 GMT [0<--5906]
OPEN
Hi Silvain, no this probably will not fit. Most 38mm tires fit some of the 40 but 42 is kind of limit. Anyway if you want that wide tires its better to go to 27.5 wheels and then you can fit 50mm tires!
Post #370 of 440. Posted by Andy Kessler on 13-Jul-2017 09:45:49 GMT [5906<--6929]
OPEN
I have 700 c wheels with WTB Resolutes on my UPPER. Works great. I love the Resolutes - they are fast on pavement and great on the dirt. The rear tire narrowly misses the seat tube but there is room - even in wet conditions. I recommend the Resolutes. It's my favorite tires or maybe my Compass 650b x 48's are awesome too. Rode those in the Crusher at the Tushar.
Post #375 of 440. Posted by UPPER Idaho on 20-Jul-2017 19:47:06 GMT [5906<--6948]
OPEN
"The rear tire narrowly misses the seat tube but there is room"...
How much is that in mm.? Just to get an idea.
Post #382 of 440. Posted by i_am_strada on 06-Aug-2017 05:35:58 GMT [6948<--6960]
OPEN
There can't be a lot because the Resolute is a bit outside of our spec.
Post #383 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 06-Aug-2017 21:55:40 GMT [6960<--6961]
OPEN
No, that is exactly also my opinion. I've tried the Specialized Sawtooth. Beside of being heavy, they were just too much and only left a few mm of clearance at the seatpost. It worked out on the road when dry. But on gravel and snow it didn't. After all it is the main purpose of a gravel bike. Some tires usually deflect to the wider (like Challenge) so my curiosity was if the WTB Resolute maybe don't.
Post #388 of 440. Posted by i_am_strada on 07-Aug-2017 02:09:47 GMT [6961<--6966]
OPEN
Guys- Noticing the spec MTB tire on a 650b wheel is 2.1. In one of the pictures above the UP had 2.25 on it. Is the 2.25 a good fit?

Thanks and great product!
Post #355 of 440. Posted by Clint on 28-Jun-2017 17:54:25 GMT [0<--5909]
OPEN
Hi Clint, it is kind of difficult to answer that question as it depends a lot what width of rim you use and what tire. There is huge difference between tires with the same "theoretical" size. Thats why we say mx 2.1 tire then we can sure every tire fits with almost every rim that makes sense for that tire size
Post #369 of 440. Posted by Andy Kessler on 13-Jul-2017 09:44:28 GMT [5909<--6928]
OPEN
I'm considering a adventure/gravel grinder bike, but am not a fan of the dropper bars. My DNA is MTB. I have a road bike but never got used to the hunched over stance and subsequent stiff neck. I rode the Grinduro! last year on my Canfield Bros. Nimble-9 hardtail MTB and had a blast, but it is hefty at 29-lbs. Is either of your UP/UPPER bikes available with straight/flat bars? How about a dropper post? It looks like you guys are wizards of cycles and thought I'd ask you gurus before rolling the dice at a bay area bike shop.
Post #356 of 440. Posted by Gary Scott on 02-Jul-2017 00:37:59 GMT [0<--5910]
OPEN
Hi Gary, of course you could ride the UP/UPPER with a flat handlebar. We have 2-3 customers that built it like that. Not forbidden but also something we are not really pushing as we have our hardtail ONE + also that is designed for flat bars and being one of the lightest frames has also only 870 grams in size Large. Dropper post no problem with both of them. If you go 1x and with Sram you can nicely integrated the lockout in the left lever thats a real nice thing to do. So I would say if you want flat go with the ONE + if you use drop bars then go with the UP/UPPER
Post #368 of 440. Posted by Andy Kessler on 13-Jul-2017 09:42:16 GMT [5910<--6927]
OPEN
I'm sure you must suffer some odd questions, some here goes another. I am wondering if anyone has considered an internal hub mounting for the U.P.? Thinking of a Rohloff with Gates belt drive.
Post #364 of 440. Posted by Mark on 09-Jul-2017 10:50:19 GMT [0<--5923]
OPEN
Hi Mark, thats not an odd question at all. This could be done the only problem is that you would need some kind of a chain tensioner
Post #367 of 440. Posted by Andy Kessler on 13-Jul-2017 09:36:40 GMT [5923<--6926]
OPEN
I noticed many here are running with Enve M50's on the U.P.P.E.R. The U-turn fork is a 12x100TA, but aren't the M50's 15x100TA? I assume there is some kind of 15 to 12 adapter one must use? What do you recommend using to convert a 27.5 15x100 wheelset for these forks?
Post #365 of 440. Posted by Mike on 12-Jul-2017 13:47:59 GMT [0<--5925]
OPEN
Hi Mike, yes almost every DT hub can be converted from 15mm to 12 mm. For those wheels with DT 240 we used HWGXXX00S7000S from DT Swiss
Post #366 of 440. Posted by Andy Kessler on 13-Jul-2017 09:35:22 GMT [5925<--6925]
OPEN
What length screws are used to mount SRAM Flat Mount hydraulic brakes to the UPPER frame and fork set?
Post #377 of 440. Posted by Geoffrey on 31-Jul-2017 19:15:39 GMT [0<--6955]
OPEN
27mm for the rear, 37mm for the front are the official lengths you can get from your brake supplier.
Post #386 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 06-Aug-2017 22:02:14 GMT [6955<--6964]
OPEN
Hi guys, 2 questions on putting together my new Upper:
1. On installing the included Cane Creek headset onto the U-Turn fork, the crown race does not seem to seat all the way down onto the shoulder or flat part of the fork. Is this ok? I've done nothing to prep the steerer tube other than to apply some grease, and the inside bevel on the crown race sits "solidly" on the tapered OD of the steerer tube, just not down as far as I am used to seeing.
2. Is 40mm the correct bolt length to attach Shimano flat mount calipers to the U-turn fork (with a washer under the bolt head)? I did not see any such bolts included, and of course, the ones that came with the calipers are very short, intended to attach the caliper with the bracket, which doesn't get used with the U-turn. I like the idea of tossing the bracket and attaching caliper directly to fork, I just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly.
I can't wait to get on this bike and ride! My plan was to take it "slow", and assemble it over the next month since I won't see any Shimano 9170 shifters and calipers until at least then, but... I might just have to steal some parts from another bike.
Post #378 of 440. Posted by davez on 02-Aug-2017 16:09:20 GMT [0<--6956]
OPEN
I installed my fork without the crown race and it sits perfectly. I tried it with the crown race and had the same issue you are having.
Post #379 of 440. Posted by Geoffrey on 02-Aug-2017 16:40:10 GMT [6956<--6957]
OPEN
Yes, sorry, I wasn't very clear. The lower bearing itself is sitting directly on the carbon steerer. There was no separate crown race included. As I say, the bevel on the ID of the bearing does sit "solidly" on the tapered steerer. And the stack/fit-up looks right once the fork is in the head tube. My only concern is the gap between the bottom surface of the lower bearing and the shoulder of the fork. I have limited experience with carbon forks, so maybe this is normal and all is "good", with the interface between lower bearing and carbon fork limited to that bevel in the ID.
Post #380 of 440. Posted by davez on 03-Aug-2017 15:57:06 GMT [6957<--6958]
OPEN
27mm bolts for the rear, 37mm bolts for the front flat mount brakes. For the bearing, indeed there will be a small gap between the bottom of the head tube and the top of the fork crown. But we're talking 1-2mm, not more, if it is more, then the bearing is probably not seated correctly in the head tube.
Post #385 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 06-Aug-2017 22:01:21 GMT [6956<--6963]
OPEN
Thanks Gerard. Indeed, the gap is as you describe, about 1mm, so all is well with the headset. Regarding the bolts for flat mount calipers, have you a source to reccomend for the M5 27mm and 37mm lengths? Or do you think it is ok to round up to 30mm & 40mm respectively, since that's all I've seen available?
Post #387 of 440. Posted by David Zink on 06-Aug-2017 23:45:02 GMT [6963<--6965]
OPEN
If you search specifically for Shimano (or SRAM) flat mount bolts you will see 27/37 mm versions. Sometimes they may call it 36.8mm but you get the picture.
Post #389 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 07-Aug-2017 07:56:30 GMT [6965<--6967]
OPEN
Hi Gerard, my apologies if this is not the appropriate place to ask this question.

Since you own? both Open & 3t, could you please help me understand the differences you believe exist between the U.P.P.E.R. and the 3t Exploro and possibly why someone should consider purchasing one bike over the other?

Thank you for your time. Cheers.
Post #381 of 440. Posted by nrjones on 05-Aug-2017 15:27:02 GMT [0<--6959]
OPEN
No problem, some thoughts on that are here: http://granfond...omen/
Post #384 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 06-Aug-2017 21:57:34 GMT [6959<--6962]
OPEN
hi,
Reading about the UP, a lot is written about its "gravel" side, but I was wondering how it's on the road. With "small" road tires (28 mm) how does it feels in comparaison as other road bike. At the present time, I have a BMC Grandfondo 02, which I find very confortable, on the road, was wondering if the UP will be the same feeling or probably better on the road with small tires, or if a better comparaison would be with a bike like the 3T exploro.
thanks for your greats products devlopment & philosophy !

jean-marc
Post #397 of 440. Posted by jean-marc on 13-Aug-2017 17:51:24 GMT [0<--6987]
OPEN
Hi Jean-Marc, obviously I am biased but I use my UP on the road all the time. I run it with 30mm tires just because I can (why not run it a bit bigger when the space is there) and I'm actually selling my old road bike because I simply never ride it anymore. And then for gravel I simply switch the wheels to 650b (of course you can also keep the same wheels and just switch the tires). Hope that helps.
Post #398 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 14-Aug-2017 08:48:08 GMT [6987<--6988]
OPEN
Hi Gerard,
thank a lot, it helps me. just waiting you next video of the month, hoping it comes with a good packages :-)

Post #400 of 440. Posted by jean-marc on 14-Aug-2017 15:32:49 GMT [6988<--6990]
OPEN
Here are some reviews from magazines that (also) rode it in road configuration:
http://www.bicy...de
to
a lesser degree: https://opencyc...

And
another thing, probably the most surprising ride is to use the UP on asphalt not with road tires but with knobby or RoadPlus tires, it's usually much better and faster than people expect.
Post #399 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 14-Aug-2017 08:52:13 GMT [6987<--6989]
OPEN
Totally agree, I run 650b Schwalbe Thunder Burts and have frequently PR'd road segments that I have previously ridden on my Cervelo road bike. Much faster than I would have initially expected!
Post #405 of 440. Posted by SeanF on 31-Aug-2017 07:07:01 GMT [6989<--7008]
OPEN
Hi,
I have a question on framesize
I am 180 cm Height with a leg inside of 89 and a Short Corso ... what is your Suggestion... i am thinking of M ... all my bikes have a TT of 550
Thanks
Post #403 of 440. Posted by Andreas Müller on 28-Aug-2017 18:55:36 GMT [0<--6997]
OPEN
Probably more like a Large. If you contact me with the form on the left and give me some information about any road/gravel/cross bike you like the fit of (brand/model/size/year) I can take a closer look.
Post #409 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 03-Sep-2017 09:53:19 GMT [6997<--7032]
OPEN
Thanks a lot for you answer...I have the Chance to try out an M & L. Best for you Andreas
Post #410 of 440. Posted by Andreas Müller on 03-Sep-2017 15:40:05 GMT [7032<--7034]
OPEN
Love the idea behind the Up and Upper. A question -- if I toss road gearing (53-42 / 11-25) and fast carbon wheels on the Upper, would it work for road racing? I'm not looking for super-aggressive geometry. But the frame and fork are really light, so it looks like a complete road build would be under 16 lbs. Thanks!
Post #404 of 440. Posted by Mark on 30-Aug-2017 20:33:06 GMT [0<--7003]
OPEN
Hi Mark, we have a lot of people who use the UP and UPPER as a road bike (including myself sometimes). It wouldn't work for winning a pro race since it won't fit a 53-42 cassette, but it will work with a 50-36 crank. That's really big enough for any normal human, since that's only 5% smaller than Froome & Sagan.
Post #408 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 03-Sep-2017 09:51:45 GMT [7003<--7031]
OPEN
Mark, I raced a stage race this weekend, and rode my brand new Upper in both a road race and a crit. I only do an occasional criterium, but I felt comfortable in the corners with both the bottom bracket height and handling, and the bike was plenty responsive sprinting out of the saddle. And road racing? Heck yes! I bought the bike to race on gravel, but it goes up the tarmac climbs and descends like a dream. As you say, with some nice carbon wheels and 28mm tires, mine weighs in at 15.8 lbs, albeit with a Di2 1X setup, 48/10-42. The gearing a few comments, but I'm very happy with it.
Post #411 of 440. Posted by davez on 04-Sep-2017 19:08:54 GMT [7003<--7040]
OPEN
Hi, can you please confirm if the Mavic Crossmax SL Pro WTS MTB Wheelset 2016 (650b) would be compatible with the U.P.? (They have them on offer at Chain Reaction at the moment). I think I read somewhere that I need center lock, but can't remember where. Thanks
Post #406 of 440. Posted by Foggy on 01-Sep-2017 15:22:13 GMT [0<--7026]
OPEN
Centerlock or 6 bolt makes no difference for the UP, that's really an "internal wheel thing". Any wheelset in principle works, as long as it comes in a version (or has replaceable end caps) that make it work with the correct axle lengths and diameters. That means 142x12 in the rear for all our frames and 100x15 for the Classic UP or 100x12 for the New UP and the UPPER.
Post #407 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 03-Sep-2017 09:48:00 GMT [7026<--7030]
OPEN
Hi There, I have read the various comments regarding front derailleur's and I am not clear if I can use an XTR Di2 front and rear derailleur. It appears that the XTR di2 attachment mechanism will not work on the UPPER/UP frame. Is that correct? Thanks
Post #412 of 440. Posted by Matt on 05-Sep-2017 23:25:52 GMT [0<--7041]
OPEN
Correct, you cannot attach an MTB front derailleur to a road FD mount. And a road front and MTB rear Di2 derailleur will not communicate together with road shift levers (two road or two MTB derailleurs will, but you cannot mix derailleur families).
Post #415 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 11-Sep-2017 13:50:49 GMT [7041<--7050]
OPEN
Just received my U.P.P.E.R. I would like to have a 2x11 set up since I am going with SRAM eTap HRD WiFli. I did see that SRAM offers a BB386 Evo double crankset. Any issues here? Only asking because the recommendations with SRAM BB30 is a single ring configuration. Thanks!
Post #413 of 440. Posted by Dave T. on 08-Sep-2017 19:47:52 GMT [0<--7048]
OPEN
BB386EVO crankset should be the right one for you.
Post #414 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 11-Sep-2017 13:49:22 GMT [7048<--7049]
OPEN
Out of curiosity, can you configure the Upper to run as a true single speed? Note: Not a 1x10/11, but a true 1x1? Thanks
Post #416 of 440. Posted by Mark Coleman on 11-Sep-2017 21:39:51 GMT [0<--7056]
OPEN
You can, with a chain tensioner.
Post #417 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 13-Sep-2017 22:02:46 GMT [7056<--7061]
OPEN
"The seattube angle is designed around the use of a straight, zero-setback seatpost rather than a regular seatpost with setback (we’ve never understood those)."

Well that's so you can get saddle in correct position for pedalling. I have relatively long femur for my height, so need saddle set back a lonnng way to get correct position over the pedals. I recall you mentioning skipping setback before on the Open UP when it first appearedand thought it a bit odd as other stuff on bike is so well thought out.
Post #418 of 440. Posted by imajez on 13-Sep-2017 23:10:08 GMT [0<--7063]
OPEN
BTW, I really like your hands on and very useful replies to your customer's queries.
Post #419 of 440. Posted by imajez on 13-Sep-2017 23:14:31 GMT [7063<--7064]
OPEN
You're welcome
Post #425 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Sep-2017 22:59:38 GMT [7064<--7073]
OPEN
Well, then for you it's even better. If you would start with a frame with a 73.5 degree seat tube, you would need a very big setback on your post to make that work. On our frame, you could use a much smaller setback (if not zero then probably a 25mm) to get to your needed position.

Maybe what I should write is that it is silly that the DEFAULT setup of a seatpost is to have 25mm setback. The default should not be to have the angle going one way and then needing an offset in the post to correct that. And the only reason that is really the case because in the previous century, the way seat posts were made it was easier to make them with a setback. Since that is no longer the case (seat post saddle clampsno longer use single bolts with cerated cradles), there is also no reason to adhere to that "standard".
Post #424 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Sep-2017 22:59:18 GMT [7063<--7072]
OPEN
Hi. I have Stages + FSA Gossamer BB30 crankset on my existing bike (2012 Specialized Crux). Can I run this crankset on the UP frame? What BB adapter would I need. And any idea if the left chainstay would have enough clearance for the Stages powermeter module?
Post #420 of 440. Posted by Ted on 14-Sep-2017 11:59:10 GMT [0<--7066]
OPEN
That crank is not compatible with our BB386EVO bottom bracket in combination with our chain stay clearance.
Post #423 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Sep-2017 22:53:17 GMT [7066<--7071]
OPEN
I'm wondering if anyone is using the new 31mm inner diameter rims (SRAM ROAM 60, etc.) on their U.P. They would require a very wide tire (>2.1) which I'm not sure would work.
Post #421 of 440. Posted by Robert on 14-Sep-2017 13:23:00 GMT [0<--7067]
OPEN
You don't need that wide a tire. For example I'm using the new 3T discus plus TEAM wheel that is 30mm ID and specifically designed for RoadPlus/GravelPlus (so not designed for mountain bikes) and it thus works perfectly with something like a 47mm Horizon RoadPlus setup or with a 2.1" MTB tire for a GravelPlus setup. I haven't tried the Road 60.
Post #422 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 17-Sep-2017 22:52:09 GMT [7067<--7070]
OPEN
Thanks Gerard. What are typical differences between wheels designed for MTB vs. gravel plus? Does it matter much?
Post #426 of 440. Posted by Robert on 18-Sep-2017 10:40:13 GMT [7070<--7074]
OPEN
A mountain bike wheel is just a bit (or a lot) overbuilt. Especially in 27.5", which is a size that is most popular for Enduro and other heavy-hitting bikes, so the wheels are often bombproof and a bit heavier. By designing it specifically for RoadPlus, gravel and trails (and not for 6 ft jumps) the wheel can be lighter and more aero.

So you can definitely use a mountain bike wheel in a road/gravel bike, but don't use a RoadPlus or GravelPlus wheel in a mountain bike.
Post #430 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 25-Sep-2017 17:13:01 GMT [7074<--7102]
OPEN
I cannot get the derailleur cable to go through the rear the rear chainstay. Is there a trick?
Post #429 of 440. Posted by Dan on 24-Sep-2017 16:08:13 GMT [0<--7092]
OPEN
The easiest is to use a magnet. If you go to the UP product page on this site, and go down to the specs/tech info, you'll see a video showing how to do it.
Post #433 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 30-Sep-2017 18:12:02 GMT [7092<--7111]
OPEN
Hi Andy and Gerard, do you recommend using Loctite 641 or any other retaining compound in conjunction with bottom bracket cups? In my case, I'm installing a Rotor PF4624 bb, for use with Shimano cranks. Rotor instructs the user to apply loctite 641 or similar. I'd like to know if you guys agree with respect to the Open U.P. Thanks in advance.
Post #431 of 440. Posted by Cole on 25-Sep-2017 20:46:36 GMT [0<--7103]
OPEN
We recommend using nothing unless the BB manufacturer recommends using something. So we're OK with Loctite but we would not recommend it if the BB supplier doesn't, so don't go put Loctite on everything now!
Post #432 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 30-Sep-2017 18:11:19 GMT [7103<--7110]
OPEN
I'm loving the 650b road plus setup. My favorite setup for my U.P. I see that the Lauf Grit works with the U.P. but would a Cannonade Lefty Oliver work or would it mess up the geometry? I know the frame is not built for suspension forks but does that include a fork with only 30mm of travel? Thanks
Post #434 of 440. Posted by Andrew Gowans on 06-Oct-2017 05:54:30 GMT [0<--7117]
OPEN
The Lefty doesn't work on the UP.
Post #435 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 08-Oct-2017 00:49:09 GMT [7117<--7118]
OPEN
How does the Open differ, If any from the 3T? Thanks
Post #436 of 440. Posted by Robin on 08-Oct-2017 20:29:41 GMT [0<--7119]
OPEN
Hi Robin, you can find a good description of the differences here: http://granfond...omen/
Post #437 of 440. Posted by Gerard Vroomen on 10-Oct-2017 10:37:19 GMT [7119<--7121]
OPEN
I would like to use the FSA SL-K modular BB386EVO with a 46/30t, 170mm crank length. Is this compatible with the Classic U.P. Frameset? I would also like to know which frame size would fit me best. I am 5'7" with a 31.5" inseam. Both small and medium look to be in range. I am older and am more comfortable with smaller amounts of reach. Thank you, Tim
Post #438 of 440. Posted by Tim on 12-Oct-2017 02:14:29 GMT [0<--7125]
OPEN
I'm wondering if anyone has tried to put their OPEN on a Wahoo Kickr with the thru axle adapter that Wahoo makes? It does not look like it will work the way the OPEN is designed. Any recommendations to make this work is greatly appreciated.
Post #439 of 440. Posted by Geoffrey on 14-Oct-2017 20:43:42 GMT [0<--7129]
OPEN
Hi what do you do for travel?? What kind of bike bags, how much do you disassemble?? Concern with disc brakes and derailleur damage?? I have a old titanium frame with S&S couplers.
How much controll do you have in the manufacturing??
Post #440 of 440. Posted by Howard on 16-Oct-2017 01:21:37 GMT [0<--7130]
Content
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